Valley actor pass teacher why so called. Climbing the eastern wall of the actor (4044 meters)

Road.

Any journey, in my opinion, begins with the first step beyond the threshold of your home. Then different options: the way to the station, to the airport, a car from the entrance. This time my option is Samara railway station.

When you travel with a company, the road flies quickly and imperceptibly, when alone, how lucky you are, it all depends on your fellow travelers. From Ufa to Omsk, a fellow traveler was a young man from Andijan who, by the will of fate, was abandoned in Bashkiria. He went to enter the Omsk Medical Institute as a traumatologist. A good guy is competent, polite, well-read, but border guards, both ours and Kazakhs, did not like his Uzbek passport. Both those and others for a long time humiliated him, examined, interrogated, sniffed, were noticeably disappointed, not finding violations.

Another fellow traveler got hooked in Chelyabinsk. This one knew everything, understood everything, and, it seems, has been to all the cities in which I have been, and he was almost born in Samara. The retired officer, just did not understand what kind of troops, whether the marine corps, or the airborne assault, or the special forces of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, or the coast guard, was currently traveling to Novosibirsk for a session of the correspondence department of the Law Faculty of Novosibirsk University. In general, I never read the novel about Oblomov, I did not make plans for the upcoming work. It’s not easy to do this when you are traveling with a person about everything that knows and wants to tell the world about it.

In Novosibirsk, I met me, the head of fees Oleg Makarov. Quickly loaded the collection products into his Nisan trailer, and the road continued. There is a good road from Novosibirsk to Biysk - straight, level, with many settlements, life is in full swing, heavy trucks are going back and forth. Someone considers this section of the road to be part of the Chuysky tract, but the truly Chuysky tract starts from Biysk and leaves for Mongolia. If the road is good from Novosibirsk to Biysk, then the Chuysky tract is magnificent! The canvas is wide and in perfect condition (nothing to do with the two thousandth year highway). The road itself is deserted, heavy trucks are rare, the scenery around is amazing! The road along which you want to drive and drive, but you won’t get too fast, is everywhere a control camera, and countless numbers for them! As a result, the road to Aktash, 800 km long, took us about 12 hours, although it was driving on Nisan.

In Aktash we stopped for the night. Here in a small roadside hotel, or, as they say here, in an inn, other instructors gathered for the training camp. We spend the night in a car, Makarov, I and Sanya Shirobokov from Kirov, we studied at the “school” together, then we trained together and now we have to work together again. Sanya is an amazing person, always in a good mood, kind eyes, a shy smile, a tireless one - he’s ready to go up the mountain at least every day, calm as a tank! Spends half a summer on South Inelchek in a support team.

At night in a car they froze to hell! They turned on the stove, - after half an hour they almost died from the heat! In general, our joy knew no bounds when at six o'clock the cargo ZIL approached, which means that the overnight stay is over and the road continues! True, for about an hour the whole crowd was overloaded products from GAZelle and from Oleg's trailer to ZIL-130. They scored it almost to the eyeballs, there is not enough space for passengers. A kind man from Oleg’s friends, part-time employee of Aktru, offered to plant part of the people in his UAZ.

This trip was impressive! UAZ if not a tank, then it looks like a small armored personnel carrier. Roads, in our concept, are not there! Bridges are demolished! Part of the path runs through the ice. He throws the car from side to side, throws it on stones and roots, we sit inside, resting our hands and feet on whatever. UAZ confidently climbs up. In one place, on the rise of a spring stream, the clay eroded, the machine cannot immediately take the rise.

Oh, I forgot the chains! - the driver complains.

I had to get out of the car. On the third attempt, the ascent was taken. The second time we got out of the car when it got stuck in a rut on the muddy ice. But the ZIL-130 is a tank! Rushing non-stop. KAMAZ rescue workers got stuck on the wet ice, ZIL ran into it with a bumper and pushed it out of a rut!

Everything once ends, our road has ended. Here we are in Actra. There is not yet twelve. It remains only to unload the car ...

Camp.

Over the past five months, changes have occurred in Actra. Two new residential modules and two built   VIP   house. In the bathhouse we changed the stove (in my opinion, it didn’t make it any better), in the dining room we moved the heating stove to another place. It became more logical, why and more convenient.

In my opinion, the most convenient and comfortable is the house of instructors. Two bedrooms for four people each, and a council room where ten to twelve people sit freely at the table. Nails are neatly packed on the walls, where you can hang your clothes and equipment. Washbasin with heater, gas bottle with stove, dishes and several outlets for charging batteries of various equipment.

Behind the instructor’s house, on the edge of the oikumena, stands the Kamchatka hut, a good-quality log house of two rooms with separate passages of six to seven people each, but with terrible stoves. Until the stoves warm up, the draft is disgusting, and the room is full of smoke, you need to open the door. Kamchatka itself was heating, I know what I'm talking about!

The oldest building in the camp is Zimovye, according to legend, already from the 37th year! Here is a warehouse, museum and living quarters. Many people who come to Actra not for the first time tend to get into this housing.

Almost in the center is another two-story KSP log house. The heating here is “modern”, through a boiler, which we had to tinker with a bit before being launched. Sasha Shirobokov and the “doctor” Andrei and I dragged 22 buckets from the river (this is official, not official - thirty). But I liked the KSP house - very cozy. True, the PSC has not been living in it lately, the participants have been living. Rescuers, represented by the OB camp of Sukhanov Sergey Nikolaevich, moved to the beautiful Teremok house, on 1 Sukhanova Street, near the PSC.

The modules are insulated plywood "Bungalows" from several rooms for four to eight people, with water heating through the boiler.

Delighted   VIP cottages, but this housing is not for harsh climbers, but for pampered citizens.

Near the volleyball court there are four frame tents "Mobil ”, These are mobile saunas (probably army ones), but here they are used as tents for housing. He set them himself, was delighted with them, found out the price, the enthusiasm diminished.

The dining room resembles a greenhouse made of lodged. Tent spots are available near the dining room. This is for real harsh climbers who despise warmth and comfort. Snow-capped peaks rise around, but unlike Bezengi, they seem so low, so close and accessible.

On the right, the slopes of the pass Teacher, it seems half an hour and you are on the pass, in fact, the path will take two to three hours. On the left are the harsh cliffs of the slopes of the Dome of the Three Lakes. Between them and Karatash, the Small Aktru glacier hangs over the camp. In fact, he “lays down” when you go out at him, walk from the camp for an hour and a half. It closes the UPI gorge, from the camp it seems low and easily accessible. You come closer and you see a powerful snow-ice take-off, six ropes, no less.

They didn’t have time to unload the car, and thick wet snow fell in huge flakes. Everything around became white white! Winter is back!

   The participants.

The first of May! Labor holiday, the whole instructors are waiting for the arrival of the participants. Breakfast is over, there are still no participants, instructors roaming around the camp idle. Assessing the situation, Makarov immediately found a job for everyone. Someone drags cots into modules and tents, someone drags buckets of water to start the heating system in the KSP house, I personally clean up Kamchatka and flood the stoves there.

Time is approaching dinner; there are still no participants. According to rumors, the bus broke. At the request of Oleg, Shirobokov and I dragged water into the bathhouse and chopped firewood. There is no source yet, the pump is not set up, and the people will come, give them a bathhouse from the road. For ourselves, we drowned the day before.

After lunch, the ZILs picked up the first batch of participants (from the first bus), an hour and a half later people drove up from the second bus. Fees can be said to have begun. While the participants settled in the houses and set up tents, the instructors composed the training departments and distributed them among themselves. I got the third branch of newcomers, nine people, mostly all from Novosibirsk. The composition of the age group is the youngest, fourteen years old, and the oldest under sixty. In the morning on a divorce, three more healthy men from the Ministry of Emergencies from Tomsk were added to my department.

My newbies turned out to be real newbies! They did not know anything! Absolutely! Even the name of the equipment that they were given in the warehouse, well, except for the helmet, perhaps. I had to explain to them the purpose of each thing (a jumar, a carbine, a trigger, etc.) and show how it works. Show how to wear a gazebo, how to block it with a harness, how to make a self-insurance mustache. Safety systems for everyone were different, with each had to deal individually. The guys from Tomsk had heavy standard rescue systems, the top connected to the bottom, and all this is put on like a paratrooper suspension. The thing is good for a promalp, but completely unsuitable for horiz because of its size and weight.

The girl Mila also had an integral bottom-up system, at one time popular with cavers, and in the mid-90s even among climbers, Gosh Mishchenko flaunted such a man in the 96th. Despite her old-fashioned system, Mila asked less and less questions, it seemed she remembered everything the first time, and even knot the “eight” with one end tied up immediately and without a hint. “Strange! - I thought, - but anything happens ... ”Subsequently, Mila admitted that she had already somehow passed through the preparation stage of NP-1, and even had the“ done ”badge

As I said earlier, the participants went to a wide age range. The oldest was Yuri Nikolaevich, he asked me to call him Yura, but the language somehow did not turn to call Yura this venerable, white-haired “newcomer”. The youngest is Nikita, fourteen years old. The first asked a bunch of questions and constantly got into instructor conversations, trying to shine with his erudition, out of place and out of place, which greatly irritated Oleg Makarov. The second, on the contrary, tried not to ask too much, was embarrassed by his unsportsmanlike appearance, was afraid that he would not succeed, and was afraid that everyone would find out that he was afraid. But then this boy shocked me with his will and perseverance. Being full, heavyweight, and not particularly physically developed, he sweated with sweat, panting, nevertheless climbed the Teacher pass, and then he climbed the Trainees peak, and not among the latter. But I was more struck by the persistence with which he climbed a tree during the "initiation" after the mountain. With tears in his eyes, panting and howling, peeling off the skin on his palms, he nevertheless climbed from the fifth attempt to where it should be, despite the fact that he was allowed to miss this test.

There was also an unusual participant Galia - she constantly comes to the mountains to replenish internal energy. For her, the main thing was the fact of movement itself! It doesn’t matter where, just to go, move, rise, achieve something. Galia was sure that if she stopped, she would die! Periodically, she asked me for permission to yell, and in a throaty voice sang folk tunes in different languages. Volodya Tumyalis, having heard these tunes for the first time, was even frightened, and then nothing, he got used to it.

   Training.

Somehow it so happened that in all camps and at all camps, classes begin with rock preparation. Without breaking traditions, our department took classes on Red Stone, such a rocky outcrop 10-12 meters high not far from the trail, among the grasshopper.

We were a little late, on the Stone was already engaged in the separation of arresters. And so as not to waste time waiting for the release of part of the routes, I decided to conduct a lesson "Walking on talus." Good luck! The event was held at "Hurray!" He noted for himself: "Such an activity for beginners who first hit the mountains is not only useful, but also necessary."

While we were walking along the Kurumnik, half of the sectors on the Stone were set free for us, it was time to move on to the main part of the training.

The first is the organization of insurance (upper), simple climbing, descent with a railing with upper insurance.

At first glance, everything is simple and primitive, but not for "zero" beginners. It’s good when the instructor has an assistant on the offhand “alignment”, and if not, you have to be “united in two persons”, to control the landing on the sack and control the correctness of insurance. In general - “Figaro is here, Figaro is there”, I in this role along the stone up and down is a great workout!

The second is a U-shaped railing.

The sportsmen were busy, they left, they left us already hung ropes. Here, some have already grumbled, expressing doubts about the appropriateness of this exercise, and doubts about the safety of this event. I had to use all my eloquence to convince them otherwise. In conclusion, a double-rope snapper was pulled with a pull-out.

The next day, according to the plan, “Organization of stations, setting up your own insurance points, climbing ligaments, interaction of ligaments”. In Actra there is a rock laboratory called "Cornices". There is a diverse relief, from simple to complex. The lower and upper stations are broken, there are no intermediate “bolts”, only their points.

Hoping for his experience and knowledge, he did not take the time-based lesson plan with him. So I got carried away with the organization of the stations, and their diversity and so many installation methods. He recovered after an hour and a half, when he realized through the eyes of the participants that they had a real “raisin” in their head! Now I’m sure that beginners should be given only two, maximum three stations, and require from them a solid knowledge of the five rules for installing stations.

But while walking on the rocks with their points, the participants pleasantly surprised me. The ligaments worked harmoniously, competently, without too much fuss, and together they snapped down with two overhangs. I then removed the stations and went down the path with stationary railings.

The ice lessons were worked out according to the program on the Maly Aktru glacier. There were no special oddities here, if you do not take into account the huge "suitcase" that had come down from the slopes of Karatash, when the group climbed the snowfield to classes. The stone, as if reluctantly, glided through the snow, then accelerated, jumped on its forehead, accelerated, crossed the path and with a roar flew into the side moraine.

The first sign of summer, - Tumyalis calmly remarked. In summer, as a rule, Small Aktru is closed, and classes are held on a large glacier.

Climbing the Master pass.

There is actually nothing to talk about this ascent. Yes, and Teacher is a non-categorical pass. The trail on it is well trodden. The main attraction of this route is the “Vertical kilometer”, the stage of the Russian Cup in sky-scoring, and the views from the pass are gorgeous.

I was not lucky! All the instructors with their compartments (grabbing mine too) ran up, and I was left to accompany two participants who barely moved, but all my persuasion to go down, they negatively shook their heads and continued to move forward stubbornly.

I was brutally tired, but not from the rise, but from such a lullaby of slow motion. But even more I was exhausted on the descent. When I entered the instructor's house, Tumyalis looked at me, stood up, patted my shoulder sympathetically and, without saying anything, shook my hand tightly. Sergeyev (head coach) also squeezed his hand tightly, slapped his shoulder, added briefly, “Hero!” - and put in front of me a mug of tea.

   Climbing:

Initially, a wonderful plan was conceived: on Victory Day, participants in the training camp NP1 and NP2 ascend to the Dome of the Three Lakes, beginners on the route 1B, badges 2B. The meeting at the top would symbolize a meeting on the Elbe seventy years ago, and then there was a salute and all that jazz ... But the last three days in Aktru were very hot, stones flew both at 2B, and from Karatash and on the sidelines at 1B. Plans changed, but decided to comply with the symbolism. We, newcomers, in honor of the anniversary were sent to the peak of the Jubilee, as it turned out no worse than the Dome, but much further.

Ascent to four, exit to five, three departments plus officials, totaling more than thirty people. It’s two hours to the Blue Lake, where the route starts from, and someone claims all three!

Breakfast is scheduled for 4.30. I have a secret hope that my two participants, who have tormented me on Teacher, will refuse to climb tomorrow. One of them, Nastya, already complained of poor health.

And then morning, the dining room, my entire unit is assembled. Before breakfast, the last briefing and checking the backpacks. The jubilee is walking, the rope is not needed there, but it was ordered that everyone take along a safety system, a squad, a trigger guard and ice axes. Those participants who carefully read the route description are perplexed - Why? But the instructors, smiling cunningly, unanimously assure that the participants will definitely need all this. Apparently awake, I completely forgot "Why?" this is needed, so just in case, all of the above also put in a backpack.

My hope that the two participants Nastya and Galia will not go up the mountain, thanks to the efforts of the doctor, collapsed. They were here at the dining room, and were eager for battle! And in order not to be behind the rest, the troops decided to leave early, without breakfast, saying that Galia knew the way to the lake. I sighed and, with the permission of the head coach and the head of the training camp, let go, foreseeing that I would again have to drag in the tail.

At breakfast, Oleg Makarov made a festive speech and advised us on the “feat”. One of the officials suggested that I take a “rocket launcher” from him for a salute on top. “Rocket launcher” was a bottle of champagne. So, as they came with breakfast for backpacks, they went uphill directly from the dining room with offices "as they were ready."

We caught Nastya in forty minutes, and Galia in an hour, at the “ram’s foreheads” before take-off. And after another hour (to be precise, after ten hours) I was at the hut on the Blue Lake. Half an hour later, the last laggards came under the leadership of Tumalis. Volodya voluntarily took upon himself the mission of escorting all the sick and the lagging. Stayed with them. And we went further. I was delighted, but the joy was premature, unfortunately. Ascent to the pass began and laggards appeared. Sergeyev quickly ran forward, and after him all the officials, leaving me with the role of the trailing one.

Whatever it was, but with jokes-jokes, an hour later we climbed the Znachkistov pass, from where on the left the route to Trainees 2A, to the right - Jubilee 1B. To us, of course, to the right! The snow still lies on the pass, but it has already melted at the top. Morning, the snow did not have time to become limp, there was no wind, the bright sun, it was easy and pleasant to go, not life, but grace!

And here is the peak, breaking off to the north by steep faults and sharp rock knives - just a horror! An “official”, a journalist of a Novosibirsk television channel, Misha conducts online reporting from the top and interviews participants, executives and other officials. We take out our “rocket launchers”, there are two of them, and give a friendly firework on top in honor of the anniversary!

Then a small “buffet” at the top, a photo shoot, congratulations and finally a friendly descent with unfurled banners and banners, and of course with songs of the war years. They quickly rolled down to the lake, removed everything superfluous, and moved in a dense crowd to the camp, where experienced arresters and on-duty instructors were waiting for us. It’s clear why! For the "Initiation"! Here, systems, zhumars, ice axes and other attributes were needed! Then there was a gala dinner. The next morning, fees and departure. Everything is normal, nothing special. Then the train and return to Samara. So my spring trip to Altai ended. Now I'm waiting for the autumn!

To the website

Karatash peak

Karatash from the Small Aktru glacier. 1B K.

From the camp, move along the Aktru River to the bridge for 30-35 minutes.Cross the bridge and over the moraine to the M. Aktru glacier (15-20 min.)In the lower and middle parts of the glacier, move along its center (cracks).Movement in bundles 1.5 - 2 hours. At the top of the glacier on snowybridges go under the slopes. Karatash to the right along the way. Next go upon a steep snowy slope along the cliffs at. Karatash. Up along the slopein. Karatash is formed by inflation from the side of the glacier. On this blowmoving around rocky slopes. Karatash until there isa simple talus slope going to the top is visible. Climb this slopeto the top (1-1.5 hours). Descent along the ascent path.

V. Karatash along the V. rib, 3B room

From the base camp "Aktru" along the path exit to the glacier M. Aktru. When going toto dress up cats on a glaciera slope with a pronounced wide shelf, representing a grassy slope,leading to the route ridge. To the right of the sidelines is a wide fireplace,also leading to the eastern ridge (climbing the fireplace is possible).Exit from the glacier to the sidelines by seraks with alternating insurance. Sunset inthe couloir on the left on the shelf, as the couloir ends with a discharge. Next 20 m. Upon the sidelines (45 gr.) and access to a wide shelf on the right. Shelf lift, movementsimultaneous (100 m., 40 gr.). Access to the crest by the gendarme locatedto the right on the movement to the ridge. Further up the ridge are two climbing ropesmedium complexity (50 gr.) using embedded elements to a smalla gendarme who does on the left. Further 500 m along the ridge, movementsimultaneously, adhering to the left slope, two gendarmes along the way get byalso on the left. The third gendarme (in front of the Throne Pants), is taken forehead withapplication of insurance for ledges (50 m.).

Descent to the jumper freeclimbing, then climbing simple rocks (45 g., 20 m.), sometimes saggingice. Then exit to a wide firn ridge leading to the top (60 m.).Descent from the top along the route 2A to. Tr.

Time layout
6.00 - Exit from Aktru camp
7.30 - Climbing the glacier
8.00 - Exit on the shelf to the ridge
9.00 - Rise along the ridge to the 1st gendarme
12.00 - Climb to the pinnacle gendarme
13.00 - Exit to the top
15.00 - Descent to the camp "Aktru"

Description compiled by S. Kostryulev, 2nd category, Bratsk
12.05.90

Karatash Yu.V. couloir of the SV ridge, 3A K. tr.

From Aktru base camp, cross the bridge to the left bank of the Aktru River.Follow the path and further along the moraine to reach the language of the Small Aktru glacier. At the bottom of itparts move along the center of the glacier, skirting the ridge of the Karatash peak on the leftalong the way. In the lower part of the ridge, a pronounced dip is visible, to whichleads a narrow deep lobby. To the left of the narrow deep sidelines to the same failureleads a wide, weakly pronounced couloir, whose inner slopeseen as a green slanted shelf going from the glacier to the dip increst.

The transition from the glacier to the "green shelf" is technically difficult. Dulfergo down to the rankluft, overcome piles of ice blocks and cracks andgo up to the rock wall, which climb up to the "green shelf". This is a relief3 K. tr. Further along the shelf, go to the failure of the CB ridge.

The key leg of the route is a 60 meter internal corner requiringhook insurance and railing organization. Further along the 40 - meter wall3 K. tr. climb the gendarme, on top of which is a control tour.Hook insurance.

After the control tour, further movement along the rocky ridge with alternatingand simultaneous insurance through the protrusions, adhering to the left along the sidecrest. Ascent to the 2nd gendarme 1-2 k.t. Descent from the gendarme by 20 metersinside corner, with alternate insurance through the protrusions. 5 meter longa steep wall on an extended ridge 2 k.t. On the crest to the top of the thirdthe gendarme. Descent from it along the wall of 3 square meters with insurance through a ledge.

Ascent to the fourth gendarme on the ridge 2 K. Tr. Simultaneous oralternating insurance through protrusions. Descent from the fourth gendarme to snowice jumper, through which go to the southern part of the slope and go to talus totop.

Climbing time 10-12 hours.

Descent along the route 1B к.т. along the Small Aktru glacier.

V. Radistov

V. Radistov along the river C from the glacier B. Aktru, 3A

From the camp, move up the Aktru River towards the B. Aktru Glacier.The crest of the Radistov peak is on the right. Move along the slopes in Kziltash,adhering to the river bed to large "ram's foreheads" (1-1.5 hours), whichcost on the right along a steep scree slope. Continue along the edge of the glacier untilslopes in. Interns. The lake ("Blue") is located behind the moraine wall. On the moraineis a house. From the camp 2-2.5 hours walk.From the moraine lake cross the B. Aktru glacier in the direction of the widestsnow lobster, which is separated from the snow-ice slopes by a narrow rockybuttress. In summer, the couloir can be rock hazardous, therefore it is recommended asyou can get an earlier exit under the route.

At the bottom of the corridor there is a branchto the left in the form of a narrow couloir, climb it to the lowering of the northern ridge.From this lowering, move up the northern ridge along the destroyed rocks withhook insurance. Rocks lead to a snow-ice slope that leavesupwards with three narrow sidelines in the form of a "chicken paw". On average rise torocks and along them go to the jumper of the eastern ridge. Radio operators. Further onsnow-ice ridge climb into. Radio operators. Time 5-6 hours.

Descent on route 1B. K.T. on the sidelines of the south slope, or through the passMaash to the moraine lake (2-3 hours).

Top AKTRU

in. AK-TRU    along the V. ridge from the Bolshoi Aktru glacier, 3A

From the camp ...

From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the B. Aktru glacier along the slopesin. Interns. The glacier is torn, so move in bundles to the sidelines betweenin. Trainees and a large gendarme on the V. crest. Actra. On the sidelines to climbon the destroyed rocks of the left along the side of the couloir, go to the lower pointB. crest (2-2.5 hours).

Go along the simple ridge to the big gendarme (control tour) and furthermove towards the apex to the pre-peak take-off. Snow-ice take-off -key section of the route (time 2-2.5 hours). Before snow-ice take-offthere is a gendarme with a 5-meter high rocky wall (organize a railing).The snow-ice ridge goes up in the form of a sickle. Move leftcrest. In the lower part on the ridge is snow, which goes into ice take-off 120-160 meters long and slope 30-40 gr. Careful hook movementinsurance. After takeoff, a simple snow ridge of 300-400 m., Leading tothe peak of Aktru.

Descent in the southwest crest on the B. Aktru glacier along the route 2A When descendingto the snowy slope to go in bundles - 2 closed bergschrund. To the moraine lakemovement along the glacier in bundles due to the presence of closed cracks.

in. AK-TRU, eastern wall, 4A
(according to the report on the ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959)

Approach from the HMS Ak-Tru through the teacher pass in the Kurumdu gorge. Kurumdu icefall intersects on the right along the edge of the cliffs in Kurumdu in bundles. The icefall crossing time is 1 hour. Overnight on the scree under the wall of Ak-Tru. The time of approach from the Ak-Tru HMS to overnight is 7 hours.

The route to the top passes along a rocky scallop, divided by snow-ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall is 800 m. The path from the bivouac to the base of the wall is 15 minutes, to the bergschrund snow slope of 30 degrees, after passing the bergschrund snow slope with a steepness of 40 - 50 degrees, deep snow, insurance through an ice ax. At a distance of 20 m from the first rocky island - open ice. Further, the movement along the scallop of the first rocky island, the rocks destroyed, medium difficulty, insurance through the ledges. At the top of the rocky island control tour. Time from bivouac - 2 hours. To the base of the second rocky island there is a snow slope with a steepness of 30 degrees, the rocky island passes to the right along the edge of ice and rocks (1 rope), then after climbing the rocky wall (10 m) traverse to the left (20 m) onto the ice scallop (50 m, 50 degrees ), which leads to the cliffs of the 3rd island. The rocks are ruined, medium difficulty and difficult, monolithic rocks are absent, are passed with hook insurance. Above the rocky island is traversed to the right, a control tour is established. To the fourth island there is an ice slope (60 m, 50 degrees). The cliffs of the fourth island are difficult and heavily destroyed, for two ropes reliable insurance is problematic. The jumper between the 4 and 5 islands is ice (30 m, 50 degrees). The cliffs of the fifth island are less destroyed, pass along the edge of ice and rocks on the right along the way. After passing the fifth island, climb 70 m up (50 - 55 degrees, ice), and then traverse 50 m to the right, where there is a fault in the snow cornice, then the path to the top along a simple snow ridge. Travel time from bivouac to the top is 16 hours.

Descent on route 2A (2.5 hours) to the "blue" lake.

TRAVERS KORUMDU - AK-TRU 4A

Approach from Ak-Tru base in Ak-Su 3 gorge - 2.5 hours.

The route begins with access to the crest of the Korumdu massif (orographic left crest in the Ak-Su valley). Recommended access to the ridge at the border of green with dry.

Driving along a 2-kilometer destroyed scree ridge with numerous small gendarmes is not difficult and does not require insurance. On the crest there are at least three camping sites (with tent sites).

The penultimate gendarme on the rocky part of the ridge is overcome by a slit with hook insurance (1 rope).

After going around the last gendarme on the left, descent to a small blue lake, after which the main, in complexity, combined part of the route begins. On the lake at the next two snow - ice pockets of the ridge there are convenient places for spending the night.

The main ice take-off (4 ropes - 40 degrees) is overcome with a slight traverse to the right. On the left side, stones can fall from the rocks located above, even in the morning.

After reaching the snow ridge and a short ice rise (1 ver.) - exit to the firn field of the ridge, suitable on the right. Then move left, first in the snow, then along a steep firn (3 ver.). Go around the relatively small rocky gendarme on the right, then after the snow bridge - traverse the larger gendarme on the right on the ice (3 ropes, 40 degrees), which is actually the rocky apex of the Korumdu massif, with the following exit to the destroyed rocks. Further down the snow lintel, then a steep climb along the snow-firn ridge to its highest point (Korumdu peak, control tour).

Descent along a heavily destroyed rocky ridge with snow fragments to its lower part. Then climb the firn (3 ropes), bypass the gendarme on the left and climb it. At the top of the gendarme there are two tent sites. The place can be used for an overnight stay.

After the descent from the gendarme along the snow-ice ridge, approach under the rocks. On the rocks there is one rope (railing), to the site of a steep (up to 60 degrees) firn slope with an ice crust. When passing the site, when screwing up the ice drills, draw attention to the quality of the ice (air bubbles are possible). The length of this section is 2 ropes. The section is zigzag (see Fig. 2, section R41 - R43). Then go left onto the firn-snow slope and traverse left through the snow over the ice faults, under the wall of overhanging negative ice (2 ropes). On the left edge of the overhanging ice overhang, exit through the bend to ice take-off (2 ropes, 45 degrees). Take-off ends with snow pressurization, after passing which - exit to the peak plateau Ak-Tru. Then move right along the plateau and along the snow-firn scallop to the rocky island with a geodetic tripod installed (Ak-Tru peak). At the top, pay special attention to snow cornices and cracks. Descent to the B. Ak-Tru glacier along the route 2 kt (snowy, and in summer - an ice slope with a steepness of up to 40 degrees, a length of up to 8 ropes).

Time alignment

From Po point (beginning of the route, access to the rocky ridge of Korumdu)
up to R1 - 5 hours
up to R1 - R2 - 4 hours
R2 - R3 - 3 hours
R3 - R4 - 2 hours
R4 - R5 - 6 hours.

Possible overnight places

On the crest between Ro and R1 (halfway).

At the point R1.

At point R2.

Molds in the section R3 - R4.

Gendarme R4.

Description compiled in August 1996.

in. Snowy

c. SNOW along the northwest wall, 3b
(described on July 26, 1996)

From the base camp located on the Ak-Tru GMS, move along the Ak-Tru River and further along the moraine of B. Ak-Tru to the icefall. Ascent to the 1st step of the glacier goes to the right of the hitsan, in the last third of which there is a gap (talus) leading to the right (orographic) sleeve of the glacier. The route is clearly visible from the top of the slit, incl. second stage of the glacier. Up to the second step, the route goes through a gentle glacier with transverse cracks up to 1.5 m wide. Ascent to the second step is possible on the left (in the direction of travel) under the rocks, but there is a danger of rockfall. When passing through the center of the icefall, the main fault is overcome in the middle part by a thick snow cork. Further movement - along a gentle glacier, there is a danger of cracks. The journey from the beginning of the hitsan to the beginning of the Ro route took 3 hours. The approach scheme is presented in Fig. 1.

c. SNOW on the sidelines of the c., 2B ct
(classified 10.12.92 g.)

From the base camp located on the Ak-Tru GMS, move along the Ak-Tru river and further along the moraine of Ak-Tru Pr. To the icefall located between V. Karatash and Hitsan. Driving time 1 - 1.5 hours. Under the icefall to contact. The icefall is overcome either under the slopes of v. Karatash, or in the center with careful hook insurance. Driving right along the hitsan slopes is objectively dangerous. The icefall travel time is 1 - 2 hours. The second stage of the icefall is overcome on the left along the slopes of the northern ridge in. Snow on the upper field of the glacier almost to the ice slopes descending from the top. In this part in the crest there is a couloir, wide at the bottom and tapering up. Travel time to the sidelines 2 hours. Ascent to the northern ridge runs along this sidelines. In a narrow part of the corridor, traffic passes along the ice with hook insurance. 2 hours time.

The northern ridge goes into the snow-ice dome of the peak. In the upper part, before reaching the summit, it is necessary to overcome the ice slope of 80-100 m, steep in the lower part, which is flat in the upper part. Movement with hook insurance. Time to reach the top 1 - 1.5 hours. Descent on route 2A grade through L.M. Ak-Tru. Descent time 2 - 3 hours.

c. SNOW  along the NW slope, 3A

From the Aktru base camp along the path along the Aktru River, further along the moraine toglacier Right Big Aktru, in the direction of hitsian. To go under the NWsnow slope, you need to climb two steps of the icefall to the left of hitsian. Firstthe stage is bypassed along the talus slit in the upper third of hitsian. Second stagemanages under the rocky slopes c. Snowy.Approach time 4-5 hours.

The steepness of the snow-ice NW slope varies from 30 to 50 degrees. in the mostcool parts. Alternating movement, hook insurance, for a group -railing organization. The lower and upper parts must be overcomebergschrundes and cracks.

The passage time of the slope is 6-7 hours.

Descent from the top along route 2A along the Small Aktru glacier.

in. Youth

B. YOUTH from the gorge Ak-Tru 1B to tr.

From the camp, move up the river towards the B. Ak-Tru glacier. Walk along the slopes of the Kzyltash River, adhering to the river bed to large rocky “ram's foreheads” (1 - 1.5 hours), which cost on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of the trainees. The lake is located behind a moraine wall. On the moraine tent of glaciologists. From camp 2 - 2.5 hours walk. Convenient place to spend the night.

From the moraine lake go onto the B. Ak-Tru glacier (cracks! Move in bundles!). To move, adhering to the slopes on the right along the road to v. Youth. Cross the glacier in the direction of the bridge located to the right of Youth. Time 2.5 - 3 hours. Ascent to the jumper along a steep snowy slope (a bergschrund can be opened in the lower part) and further along a simple ridge to the top (1 - 1.5 hours). Descent along the ascent path to moraine lake 1 - 1.5 hours.

Traverse STUDENTS - YOUTH, 2B room

From the camp, move up the river towards the B. Ak-Tru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyltash, adhering to the river bed to large rocky “ram's foreheads” (1 - 1.5 hours), which cost on the right along the steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of the trainees. The lake is located behind a moraine wall. On the moraine there is a tent of glaciologists. From camp 2 - 2.5 hours walk. Convenient place to spend the night.

From overnight stays on a moraine lake, move up the B. Ak-Tru glacier (in bundles !!!) adhering to the rocky ridge on the right along the way. On the left, the glacier breaks off from a large rocky step. On the right, gentle part of the glacier, rise to the level of the rock step and cross the glacier in the direction of the Maashei Pass. The rise is gentle (cracks!). Time 2 - 2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge towards the top of the Students. Initially, the ridge is simple snowy. In front of the summit there is a large gendarme in the form of a rocky “saw”. The movement is alternating, insurance through a ledge. “Saw” is a key part of the route. After the “saw”, a simple ridge leads to the students. Time 1.5 - 2 hours. Descent from the Student's Hill and ascent to the Youth Hill takes 25-30 minutes. On a simple ridge.

Descent from v.Yunost on the route 2 K. Tr.

YOUTH - STUDENTS traverse 2B c.t.

Ascent to V.Yunost along the route 1B к.т. and further towards the traverse of the Students - Youth.

in. Petrel

from ice Ak-Tru, 1B

From the camp, move up the river towards the B. Ak-Tru glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kziltash, adhering to the river bed to large rocky “ram's foreheads” (1 - 1.5 hours), which cost on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of the trainees. The lake is located behind a moraine wall. On the moraine - a tent of glaciologists. From camp 2 - 2.5 hours walk. Convenient place to spend the night.

From the moraine lake, go to the B. Ak-Tru glacier, connect and move along the slopes, keeping to the right along the side (move in bundles, the glacier is torn by cracks covered by snow). On the left, the glacier breaks off from a large rocky step. On the right gentle part of the glacier, rise to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of the Maashei Pass. The climb to the pass is not steep (cracks!). Time 2.5 - 3 hours. From the pass, the path goes along a simple snow ridge, with ups and downs and a cornice breaking off to the east, to Burevestnik v. Time 2 - 2.5 hours. Descent along the ascent path.

  Tamm Peak

Approaches to the summit are possible from the Ak-Tru gorge with an ascent to the Maashei pass, from the Maashe gorge with an ascent to the same pass from the east, along the Maashey ridge, traversing it to the east, from the south from the Karagem gorge. The most logical and at the same time the easiest way to the top is the path from the Ak-Tru gorge, the second most difficult is the path from the glacial Maash, the greatest difficulty is the path to the top from the west along the ridge, because the rise and traverse of this ridge is difficult.

Climbing from Ak-Tru gorge is first done in the usual way. They go to an overnight stay on a moraine near the lake, then a glacier passes until the first take-off. When leaving for the first take-off, they go to the left, the bout direction towards a visible lowering in the South Akturinsky ridge - this is the Maash lane, after passing a little, another take-off begins with a steepness of about 35 degrees and a height of about 100 meters. After passing this take-off, a smooth rise begins with a steepness of up to 25 degrees. There are bergschrund along the way. The largest of them is at the bend at the top, where the slope gradually flattens and reaches 8 - 10 degrees. To the right of the pass point there are rocks on which the tour is folded. The travel time from an overnight stay at the moraine lake to the crossing point is 3-4 hours and very much depends on the state of the glacier and snow. Further movement on the snow to the left, traversing a difficult take-off on the right. After taking off, you should not go straight to the ridge, because huge eaves hang on the left. After descending from this ridge, climbers find themselves in a snowy trough about 15 meters long. Here we must beware of unpleasant cracks located without any regularity. The climb from the trough to the ridge, which bifurcates to the left to the Petrel peak and Tamm peak is approximately the same, in terms of complexity they also do not differ. After reaching the ridge, go right to the highest point, which is a snow peak. The tour is located somewhat lower on the cliffs. The movement time from the crossing point to the top is 1.5 hours. The descent takes place along the ascent path and takes about three hours. The path from the Maashey canyon can pass through the Maashey pass with a climb to the top along the above path and traverse the peaks from west to east.

To pass the traverse, a crust glacier (almost horizontal, devoid of any cracks) passes from the Maashey gorge, approaches the slope of the northern wall of the Maashey peak, then going to the right branch of the glacier they go to the right to a visible lowering between the Tamm peak and the Bars peak. At first glance, the route seems more complicated than on Maashei lane, in fact, the difficulty of the routes is almost the same. The glacier at this point of rise is severely torn and its passage depends on the state of snow by the time of the climbing season. The most difficult time to go through this section is the end of summer, because the steepness of some sections reaches 45 degrees, and movement in cats with hook insurance is necessary. The path goes first on the right, and then towards the middle of take-off, passes in the center and towards the exit to the Karagem plateau, again go to the right. This path cannot strictly determine the route, because The state of ice and cracks changes every year. In any case, the path is not dangerous, ice discharges are not observed, and quite passable. The rise time from the right branch of the glacier to the Karagem plateau is 3-4 hours. Climbing Tamm Peak from the Karagem Plateau is not particularly difficult and first passes through a snowfield with a steepness of up to 35 degrees in the direction of the rocks, the length of this section is about 150 meters. The rocks of the tiled structure are destroyed, in some places they reach a steepness of up to 60 degrees. The movement on the rocks with alternating insurance and takes 1.5 - 2 hours of time. The tour is complicated not reaching the top on the very last cliffs. Descent from the top is described above.

SCHEDULE OF THE HIKE FROM MAASHI Gorge.

Travel time to the right branch of the ice. Maasha - 2 hours.

Exit under the slopes of the route - 1 hour.

Exit to the Karagem plateau - 3-4 hours.

Rise to the top - 1.5-2 hours.

Descent to the climbing camp - 5-6 hours.

Full traverse time - 10-15 hours.

ASSESSMENT OF DIFFICULTY OF ROUTES

The combined route for traverse from Ak-Tru gorge to Karagem gorge and back can be classified as 2A - snow-rocky, for traverse from Maashe gorge and back the ice-rock route can be classified as 2B, for climbing from Maash gorge with a preliminary exit to the Maash pass the route is somewhat more complicated, the character is ice-rocky-snowy and can be estimated as 2B - 3A, although this route is difficult to control. Climbing from Ak-Tru gorge with a descent along the ascent path can be classified as 1B, the route is snowy.

Material composed: B. Sustin, G. Andreev.

in. ICE

in. ICE along the NE buttress of the ridge, 3B K.

From the base camp along the path, go under the nunatak separating the Prav.Ak-Tru glacier and, clinging to the rocks, go around it on the right. Having gone out onto the glacier and overcame the ice faults on level ice, approach the second gendarme of the north-east f / v of the internal combustion engine. Then go to the ridge to the left or to the right of it (having orientated on a snow-ice situation). The movement along the rocky ridge in ligaments is simultaneous, the rocks are 2-3 k.s. The crest is badly damaged, there are many dips that are clogged with snow. The rise occurs on the left side of the ridge. Traverse in the holes in the snow under the eaves! Hook insurance and through the ice ax. Gradually, the ridge rests on the ice slope, in the lower part of which the overcoming of the icefall is to be overcome. After overcoming it on ice 30 - 45 degrees, 100 m, exit to the rocky “outlier”. From it to the top dome movement along the ice (45 - 50 degrees) slope, 120 m, which ends with a snow cornice. Having cut through the cornice, we exit to the summit dome (ice of 20 degrees).

Descent to Athletic lane on ice 20 - 30 degrees along the railing - 60 m. From Athletic lane descent to ice. Ak-Tru avenue under Radistov lane, railings, overcoming bergschrund.

TACTICAL ASCENT PLAN

Exit with b / l “Ak-Tru” 8.00
Nunatak Approach 10.00
Entrance to buttress 12.00
Exit to the skostanets 14.00
Exit to the top 14.30
Descent to Lane Fizkulturnik 15.30
Descent to ice. Ak-Tru 16.00
Return to b / l 19.00

COMPOSITION OF THE GROUP

1.Schlecht A.D. CCM - Head

2. Solomatov V.A. CCM - student

3. Nemtsev S.Yu. 1 - account

4. Khazheev A.R. 2 - student

The description was made by Nemtsev S.Yu. 02/25/95

in. Kurkurek

DESCRIPTION OF PASSING THE NORTHERN COMB KURKUREK TOPS IN NORTH-CHUI PROTEINS

Actually, the climbing route along the northern ridge of Kurkurek begins after the climbers, having left the camp, descend to the transshipment base at the beginning of the Ak-Tru gorge and then climb through the windbreaks and blockages of the taiga to the foot of the peak. Although this may not be related to the climbing difficulty of climbing, it requires a large initial energy expenditure from a sports group for 8 to 10 hours.

The bivouac, which begins the climb along the northern crest of the peak, can be broken down on the crest itself. In its initial part from the Kurkurek River, it is not difficult, first it is a grassy steep slope (1 hour), then a gentle (25 degrees) shallow and medium talus, then a steeper (35 degrees) large quartz talus. In the future, the ridge is indicated more sharply, but is also easily passable, since its take-offs are not steep, and the width of the ridge is quite sufficient for setting up a tent. From the river at the tongue of the Kurkurek glacier to the place of extremely convenient camping sites located directly on the ridge, about 3 hours. Overnight is located below the peak at about 900 - 1000 meters in height. Further, the path is blocked by six more or less pronounced gendarmes, composed of shale rocks.

The first three gendarmes go around on the right, the fourth and fifth pass on the forehead, the sixth is also traversed on the right along the shelf at the border of the snowfield, which abruptly falls on the Kurkurek glacier between the northern and north-western crests of the peak. The time taken by the group to overcome this section is 2.5 hours. After the gendarmes, the ridge becomes purely snowy over 2 ropes and, although almost horizontal, has a completely steep slope to the right (60 - 65 degrees) in its upper part) and the cornice to the left. Moving along the eaves can lead to a fall in a short cup-shaped couloir. To stay from the top of this snow ridge is three to four meters to the right.

The comb leads to the sebaceous steep wall, in front of which it expands into a small area where the second number of the ligament can fit for organizing hook insurance of the first number. The height of this gendarme ridge closing the exit is about 35–40 meters, but the sheer initial part is four meters. There is no other way here forehead. The top of the gendarme passes into a rocky ridge, but after 100 meters the main ascent begins directly to the peak, which is snowy, and then passes into an ice, steep slope. The steepness of the snow slope increases to 50 degrees as it rises. To the right and down from it is the edge of the slope above the circus of the Kurkurek glacier. In the first section of seven to eight ropes, movement is carried out through dense snow to a rock spot. From it, the thickness of the snow cover begins to decrease and for some time the organization of insurance is difficult and requires hard work to clear the pelvis for the hook. The time to overcome the path from the wall of the gendarme described earlier, closing the exit from the ridge to the last rock spot, is 1.5 hours. The last stage of the ascent represents the most critical part of the route. For 200 meters, an ice slope with a steepness of 50 degrees is sprinkled with a loose 20-centimeter layer of snow that is not bound by ice. Within three hours, a group with hook-and-loop insurance and cutting down steps climbed this slope to the top. Only 10 - 15 minutes to the top the slope reduces the steepness and the last, more shallow step leads to the top. The peak itself is a huge snowy plateau, slightly sloping towards the Maash river and abruptly breaking off to the southern ridge, going to the peak of B. Ak-Tru.

Descent from the top along the northwest ridge. Moving along this ridge, which has a flat top, but ends with walls to the north and steep snows to the south, is a simple task. The problem is choosing a place from which to start a safe descent into the valley. Having walked along the ridge 5-6 km, the descent along the northern spur of the ridge begins, which limits the second glacial circus behind the Kurkurek glacier from the west. Initially, the descent is a very steep snowfield, and then with a turn to the right is also a very steep and rocky rocky couloir. In the lower part of the corridor there is a fine scree, excellent for descent, leading to a flat open glacier. The path to the bivouac by the Kurkurek River goes further along the moraines and is not difficult. The time required for descent from the top to the bivouac is 7 hours.

Schedule of climbing to v. KURKUREK from the north.

1. Approaches to the base of the north ridge take all day. This must be taken into account when planning the ascent dates.

2. The journey to overnight stays on the northern ridge from the green camp takes three hours, is elementary and goes without ligaments.

3. Movement along the ridge directly from an overnight stay on the ridge at first can be carried out without binding, but when overcoming the 4th, 5th and 6th gendarmes, ligaments are necessary. The time for approaching the wall behind the first snow scallop is 2.5 hours. Technically, the path is significantly complicated, and the passage of the snow ridge requires careful implementation of all the methods of alternate insurance on snow.

4. Overcoming the rock wall and reaching the top of the gendarme is a high-tech task using hook (5 hook) insurance of the first number of the bundle. The nature of climbing in the first sections is such that, apparently, in any group of arrester there are participants who will have to climb the gendarme not only along the rocks, but also along the rope. Climbing is complicated by the athlete’s tense state, holding on small hooks over a hopelessly steep snow slope, ending with a cliff in the ice circus. Overcoming the gendarme and approaching the last rocky spot on the slope takes 1.5 hours and should be characterized by a high degree of technical difficulty.

5. Climbing the ice slope to the summit takes three hours of continuous hook work with cutting steps and from a climbing point of view can be best characterized by comparison with the climb to the ridge of Sev.Ushba on the ice slope from the Nastenko rocks in the snow-free year.

6. The 7-hour descent from the summit along the northwest ridge is initially elementary simple, but then when moving along its northern spur it is tense both in the steepness of the relief and in the degree of stone hazard of the walls of the corridor leading to the surface of the glacier. It can be assumed that the descent along the ascent path will be no more difficult than the descent traversed by the group.

Features of climbing to v. KURKUREK from the north.

a) The absence of paths in the taiga bordering the foot of the peak and, therefore, an unproductive initial expenditure of energy to reach the route;

b) increased, against the mid-Caucasian, requirements for athletes of the 3rd and 2nd categories in relation to the ability to overcome steep 50-degree ice slopes located above the faults;

c) the increased rock hazard of the path along the northern spur of the north-western ridge, which dictates the requirement for a small number of sports groups to climb and descend along it.

in. Interns

  from the ICON 2A

From the camp move up towards the B. Ak-Tru glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyltash, adhering to the river bed, for large rocky “ram's foreheads” (1 - 1.5 hours), which cost a steep scree on the right. Then move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of the trainees. There is a tent of glaciologists on the moraine shaft, and a lake behind the shaft. From camp 3 - 3.5 hours walk. Convenient place to spend the night.

From the moraine lake move up towards the Znachistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time - 1.5-2 hours. There is no need to climb directly to the pass. A gentle snowy slope leads to the pass, which goes left and up to the top of the Trainees. On this snow-ice slope climb the summit ridge. The movement is simultaneous, alternating with hook-and-loop insurance on ice. In the upper part of the slope it is necessary to overcome the crack. Then go along the uncomplicated summit ridge to the summit. Time - 1-1.5 hours. Descent along the ascent path.

in. UPI

  from the north, 2B room

From the camp, move up the river to the beginning of the B. Ak-Tru glacier (right) and along it up to the first stage of the icefall, located between the hitsan and the slope of V. Karatash (contact!). Time 1 - 1.5 hours. The first step is overcome between the slopes of the peaks of Karatash and the icefall (on the left). On the snowy slope, climb to the second step, which goes along the left along the snowy peaks near the cliff ridge. Cross the glacier towards the top of the UPI (cracks!). Time 1.5 - 2 hours. On the snow-ice slope of the UPI peak, climb the pre-peak ridge. The crest is sharp. The western side of the ridge is ice, the eastern one is terminated by cornices. Move along the ice behind the tear-off line of the eaves. Hook insurance. Go along the ridge to the top. Time 2 - 2.5 hours.

Descent along the ascent path. Descent time 2 - 2.5 hours.

TRAVERS v. BUREVESTNIK - ICE - UPI, 3B K.

From the bivouac near the moraine lake, the group rises to the Maashey lane and goes with a simple ridge to the peak of Burevestnik. Exit to the top in 3.5 hours. The descent from the peak is made along the eastern monolithic wall, as The eastern buttress is extremely rock-hazardous. The descent begins on a very steep but very short (15 m) ice section. The descent goes down and to the left with access to the rocky shelf. The path along the rocks is complicated: slabs, crevices, and small plumb lines alternate, along which three small ice sections 6 to 8 meters long must be descended along a rope 5-6 meters; steps are required to be cut. The direction of the descent to the snowfield. On it, bypassing the red rocks, go to the Athletic Pass. From the pass begins the ascent along the western ridge of the ICE peak. The path goes first along the snow ridge, on which the gendarmes are located. The second of them costs on the left along a sharp snow crest, all the rest pass in the forehead. It takes a lot of work to overcome the top of the ice wall, on which deckhouse steps and hook insurance are needed. From the village of Burevestnik to the ICE - 7 hours. Descent along the eastern crest of the peak to the top of the UPI begins by overcoming the cornice, in which a trench is cut. The descent is ice, ice is hard - hook insurance. In the future, the slope passes into a snowy rocky ridge, falling to the bridge between the internal combustion engine and the UPI. The ascent to it goes first along a simple ridge, then the rock ridge becomes unreliable and the path runs to its left along a snow ridge, abruptly breaking off to the left by walls, and to the right, separated from the rock ridge by narrow but deep cracks. Gendarmes of medium difficulty are overcome in the forehead. The path from ICE to UPI is 4 hours. Descent from the UPI to the right branch of the B. Ak-Tru glacier runs along the northern snow ridge. Immediately below the summit, the ice slope (hooks). After reaching the rock buttress, they descend to two ropes: traverse the snow slope and descend into rugged cliffs onto the upper circus snowfield. Further, the path goes through the icefall - ligaments. At the end of the lower stage of the glacier, you have to go left to the rocky island and descend from it to the right bank of the left glacier B. Ak-Tru. Descent from the UPI to this place takes 7 hours.

Traverse UPI - PETROLEUM. 4A

Climbing to the top of the UPI passes along the route 2B к.т. (6 - 7 hours). From the top of the UPI, the descent first goes along a simple ridge, which gradually becomes more complicated, forming a series of gendarmes. They pass alternately with insurance through a ledge. After a series of gendarmes, the ridge simplifies and leads to a snow-ice slope on the ICE, which is overcome in cats with hook insurance. A snow cornice is possible in the upper part of the engine. The cornice is cut or cut using ice axes as ITS. The control tour on the ICE is located below the peak further along the ridge at the rocky exits. Driving time from military unit UPI to military unit 5 - 6 hours.

The descent from the ICE is along the snow-ice slope in the direction of Burevestnik, then along a simple ridge. Before climbing to Burevestnik, there are convenient places for spending the night.

Ascent to Burevestnik passes to the left of the crest rocks along the sidelines, overcoming rocky steps covered with snow. The movement is alternating with insurance through a ledge or hook insurance. The last rocky bastion is bypassed on the right. Before going to the top, a cornice is possible. He either cuts or passes using ice axes as ITS. Driving time from the ICE to the Petrel is 5-6 hours.

If the climbing conditions made it possible not to spend the night before climbing to the summit of Burevestnik, then you can spend the night in any snowy trough in the region of Burevestnik.

The descent from the top goes along the route 1B kr.tr. across the Maasha pass.

Traverse BUREVESTNIK - UPI, 3B K.

The route goes in the opposite direction of route 4A of the territory of the UPI - Petrel. When descending via a snowboard through the eaves of the Burevestnik and ICE peaks, it is necessary to organize either self-pulling ice axes or leave anchorage points on the top on the snow (snow anchor, long pin, etc.).

Description of the route.

From Ro to R1 - climb along the left (in the direction of travel) shore of the glacier, bypassing the bergschrund, with simultaneous insurance. When driving, pay attention to the sidelines on the left, which are sources of frequent rockfalls. A possible variant of movement when the bergschrund is closed is along the glacier.

R1 - R2 lifting with hanging railings. With a good preparedness of the group, movement with simultaneous insurance through intermediate hooks (ice drills) is possible.

R2 - 40-50 meters, to the right of the lower part of the rocky ledge, forming the right edge of the last (upper) couloir.

R2 - R3 railing movement. In places there are small transverse cracks up to a meter wide. Before R3, the slope is flattened at the pre-peak take-off.

R3 - R4 traverse to the left, bypassing the apical take-off along the horizontal railing. Rocky ledges are visible at the top right.

R4 - R5 Climb the railing until it flattens sharply.

R5 - R top plateau.

Descent on route 2A

The rise of a group of 10 people took: Ro - R2 - 3 hours, R2 - R - 3.5 hours.

in. Kzyltash

v.KZYLTASH from the CONTAINER pass, 1B K.

From the camp move towards the P. Ak-Tru glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyltash, adhering to the river bed to large rocky “ram's foreheads” (1 - 1.5 hours), which cost on the right along a steep talus slope. Then go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of the trainees. The lake is located behind a moraine wall. On the moraine - a tent of glaciologists. From camp 2 - 2.5 hours walk. Convenient place to spend the night. From the moraine lake, the path goes up in the direction of the Container pass, adhering to the slopes in Kziltash on the right along the way. Ascent to the pass passes on a hard small scree (2 - 2.5 hours). From the pass to the right up the rocky ridge. The rocks are ruined. In the lower part the movement is simultaneous, in the upper part - alternating, insurance through a ledge. From the upper point of the ridge to the left, a snow ridge leaves, leading to the peak of Kziltash. It is necessary to go down to the snow ridge along a five-meter wall of medium-difficulty climbing with insurance through a ledge. On a simple snow ridge, climb to the top of Kzyltash. Descent along the ascent path.

V.KZYLTASH with per teacher, 3A

From the lower structure of the Ak-Tru HMS, move up the wide corridor, along its right side along the old path in the direction of Uchitel lane. Ascent to the north-east ridge on the lane Teacher takes 1 - 1.5 hours. On a simple ridge, move towards the top for 30-40 minutes until the first difficult sections that you need to contact. Then move in bundles alternately or simultaneously with insurance through a ledge. There are several gendarmes on the crest, they go around on the right along the way, or in the snow, or along rocky shelves. The northeast ridge ends with a 40-meter wall with an internal angle that leads to the southeast summit ridge (2 - 2.5 hours). The inner corner, a key section of the route, is flooded with salty ice. It is passed with thorough hook insurance. Further movement is mainly on the left side of the southeast ridge. The last gendarme in front of the summit passes on the right in the snow. Ascent to the top tower takes place on the right side of the tower (2 - 2.5 hours).

Descent from the top along the route 1B к.т. to the container pass. Descent time 3 - 3.5 hours.

Day 13

Radialka on the Teacher pass (3000m)

The morning does not add to the understanding of the further concept of behavior. Earlier, I planned to call here for one night and then move south Teletskogo. But the ratio of efforts to overcome the road here and back, and the time spent here seemed completely unreasonable. It was worth climbing here for the sake of one night ...
  Therefore, I slowly come to the idea that the Teletskys will have to sacrifice, but staying in Actra is more efficient.
  Looming bold plans to climb to the top of the Dome (3500m, 1a). Moreover, I already climbed there, though not one and 15 years ago.
  And today I decided to climb the Teacher pass (3000m, 1a) - the traditional route for acclimatization and warm-up.

1 morning idyll

By the way, in the evening +2 people of climbers slightly arrived at the people. I talked with one of them on the topic of edible plants and the gifts of nature in general. He showed me some useful herbs, so much so that I even remembered them, thanks for that. In general, this topic is interesting - applied botany.

3 Aktru valley from above, you can see the Small Aktru glacier and the Dome begins to peer to the left

4 bends of Aktru and Kurai steppe

5 tea with a view of the Kurai steppe and the Kurai ridge

6 Kyzyl-Tash (3800), I also climbed there for a long time 1b from the side of Blue Lake

7 I’m waiting for sunset, over the Kurai ridge

9 here it is, the Dome, in all its glory

It gets dark, I run down, it happens faster, of course, than the rise, but I like it much less. Cool and loose, sometimes you just move out. The sky is somehow not good.
  Closer to night the wind rises. I'm starting to fear that my Dome will not take place ...

Day 14

Gloom

Morning met with rain. Continuing day, evening and night, but already in the form of snow.

11 is my standard view for this day

I survived as best I could.

14 before the supposed sunset, the rain almost stopped for 20 minutes, I managed to run to the river and take a picture, then it started to rain again

Day 15

Radialka on the Blue Lake

He slept for a long time, the body seems to have adapted to the maximum to kill time. But after waking up, it turned out that it was in vain - the sun was shining.

15 snowy Karatash

I’m starting to understand that, despite the good weather, it’s better not to climb the Dome for the next three days - the talus lobster is wet, snowy and shoots with stones. So today I'm going to the Blue Lake, and tomorrow I'm going down.

16 remnants of the Maly Aktru glacier, 15 years ago it was twice as long

17 bastions of Kyzyl-Tash, very picturesque things

18 Bolshoi Aktru glacier

20 go sucks - wet, under your feet everything goes and loosens up

21 Big Actru and really quite big

22 Blue Lake, the house of glaciologists and the path to Kyzyl-Tash through the Container Pass

In the house I steamed a couple of cans of stew, condensed milk, powdered milk and mashed potatoes and sweets on the little things. As far as I understand, the mountaineering people are leaving excess products there, so as not to drag them down and I did not rob anyone. But all the same, I did not feel very comfortable at the same time.
  I turned around the lake, trying to understand what was beautiful in these places and why hundreds of people roam here in the summer, I did not find. Well, of course, climbers, for them it is a base for climbing. But the rest, why climb there? Meanwhile, this radial is very popular.
  He shrugged, moved back.

23 glacier passed, descent from ram's foreheads into the valley

Approaching the zone of the forest, I examined the lobby on the Dome in doubt - whether to take a chance and climb tomorrow. But after sitting down and seeing how it was pouring in there, I decided not to risk it. Moreover, on the Dome itself, it’s not enough to go for a fresh snowball too - although it is stated that there are no cracks on this side, still a fresh snowball in such places is not good.

24 left corridor - climb to the Dome

25 couloir - climb to the Dome

For the rest of the day I indulged in gluttony and converted sweets from the "house with food" into pleasure. I fell asleep happy.

06.07.2019 17:37

I can not get together to publish an emotional text. So, “May the keyboard help me give birth to a dry overview of routes!”, Especially since the magic Pendel flew in from where they didn’t wait - Light, if you read, hello! Late in the evening, a message came to the direct installer, which began with the words "I didn’t find it on your blog ..." Lord! Someone is reading me, what a nightmare!
Actually, based on questions, I will tell a little about the paths in the Aktru region that are known to most.
In order. Very often I find confusion in terminology, so I’ll give you a glossary, let's start with the most confused letter “A”.
The general name of Aktru, Aktur, Aktur is the "white house". By the way, the Altai people (or Turks) do not have many colors: ak - white, kara - black, kyzyl - red. That's all over! Most of the geographical objects that have fallen into my not-so-wide outlook are named according to their color. The assortment is small!

Aktru - peak, gorge, valley, glaciers.
Bolshoi Aktru is a glacier, the name of which is determined by its size - it is large, you will immediately recognize it when it catches your eye. If you look directly from the climbing camp to the top of Kara-Tash (you will immediately notice it too, it is best seen from the camp and is considered a business card: Kara - black, tash - stone), then the glacier will be on the right. Strongly on the right. It will seem small, but it is not so, for only the tip of its "tongue" will be visible. The total length of the glacier is about 8 km, so you should not succumb to visual deception due to proporcies.
Small Aktru - a glacier. Again, we will take Kara-Tash as a landmark. Small Actra on the left, do not mix up. There is even visible icefall. During the training camp, ice lessons are held just at Maly Aktru, where they learn to walk in cats, twist ice drills, climb icefalls. When I took part in such an event (in May) there was a lot of snow, Kara-Tash wasn’t "Kara" at all, the glaciers were so thickly "spread" with white that the blue ice for cats and ice drills had to be mined diligently under snowdrifts.
Actru is a river. Guess where you start! In winter and even in May you can drink from it, but as soon as the glacier begins to melt actively, the water becomes cloudy and you don’t feel like drinking from it. Near the river runs a drinking stream. It will not be difficult to distinguish a large river from a stream, especially in the camp - everything is signed there.
Aktru-Bashi is the highest peak in the region - 4044.4 m. The easiest route to its peak is 2A. 2A is definitely not for people without training. About how we went to V. Trainees (also in grade A A) as a group, consisting of a person without special knowledge, I will tell later;). So, if you are driving such mountains for the first time, what cats, ice axes, ice drills, a jumar, a sackcloth and the main nodes are, you don’t know - do not tempt fate.
With the letter "A" in our glossary, it's time to end.

B!
Lamb foreheads - a form of relief. Rocks composed of bedrock protruding to the surface, smoothed and polished by glacier movement.
Bergschrund (this concept is not necessary to know, just a funny word) is a crack in a snow-ice slope that forms when a heavy lower part, moving along with the glacier, breaks away from a motionless snow-firn slope in the upper part. Usually located at the beginning of the glacier, or on the sides of the glacier.

IN!
Via ferrata - “iron road” from Italian. A section of the route, which is equipped with devices to increase speed and safety of movement: iron brackets, cables, metal plates.

Car part of the route

The road to the gorge begins with a turn to Kurai. You can go to it by any working machine. From Kurai to the “transshipment” any car will reach, whose cross-country ability is slightly higher than the sedan: a dirt road, there are fords, but all are passable, even in a passenger car, but with experience of driving;). The most difficult part is the climb before the “transshipment”. Remember the weather in the mountains and possible rain! A slippery surface becomes instant. The most interesting part for mud lovers is 8 (or 6) km from the “transshipment” to the alpine camp. Usually from there they offer casting: on UAZs, on jeeps, on foot. If you have experience driving off-road and the corresponding car, then you go there! But, I recall the situation when the Altai people on a UAZ tablet stood in the middle of a swamp, resting their back wheels on a stump ... Coverage: dirt road, stones in places, there are lots of dirt, there is a swamp. In some places the roads diverge, but still they will gather at the end point of the route. You can choose to your liking!

Climbing camp

We arrived at the training camp in the first half of May and settled at the lower base. On it houses are simpler than on the top, there is a place for tents. Outdoor amenities even in new buildings. The security officer lives at the base, where you can find out the situation on the routes (ask camp residents where to look).
The upper Pencil base is higher (it’s amazing why they called it that way, right?), Closer to Kara-Tash (remember, we took it as a landmark). Everything is much more civilized there - the amenities are already warm, the buildings are new and multi-story. But prices are much higher than at the lower base. You can rent equipment there. They say that their warehouse burned down, but I took shoes there for testing, so that shoes can be borrowed for lack of mine - 300 rubles / day, a passport as a deposit, you need to specify the rest of the equipment. If you are planning to go to the Dome of three lakes, you would already need to have at least one pair of cats per group and ropes for insurance, renting would be just the way, not to buy equipment for one time.
I’ll tell you from my own experience and the experience of Misha, who lived there much more than I do. I lived only in the house. There were 12 of us in the room on the benches, so I can’t talk about freedom, silence and relaxation. Still, alp.boroughs are an event of a guitar and an ice ax, and not a sleeping bag and a healthy complexion. Exactly a year ago, at the same training camp, when Misha also drove, the guys lived in large tents with stoves. It was pretty comfortable. It’s not even worth talking about the summer period for tents, there’s not even snow already, there’s no need to dig a snowdrift, just grab a sleeping bag! This year, after the training camp ended, some comrades (let's not poke a finger) still remained wandering in the area and they lived above the lower base in an ordinary tent, they say that this is some kind of paradise after our common room!

Routes

Routes that are heard by people far from mountain climbing in the Aktru district: Blue Lake, Uchitel Lane, Dome of Three Lakes, Green Hotel, St., Yubileinaya. I think it’s worth saying a few words about them.

Blue Lake, per. Iconist, V. Yubileinaya

The lake is located at an altitude of 2840 m in the basin behind the left moraine of the Left Bolshoi Aktru glacier. Above, we sorted out where we have the Bolshoi Aktru glacier. Because Since it diverges, as if absorbing peaks inside itself (it bends around), it is easy to understand where the left is, where the right language is. Morena - fragments of rocks brought during the glacier. To a quick ignorant glance - heterogeneous stones of different sizes interspersed with earth, clay and some other debris. Morena, immediately beyond which the Blue Lake, is easy to read, not to slip past. Blue Lake is always an intermediate point for mountaineering routes. Even during the period of our small gatherings on the Blue Lake, we were twice, the path to it among climbers is called nothing more than a “dope”, because you go, you don’t meet any technical areas, you just stomp along the trail or walk along the snow. Most often, they set up a camp there and start on the route already from there, a lot of category routes begin from the Blue Lake: Kyzyltash and Trainees, Aktru, V. Yubileynaya, many paths to the passes, from which there are also several paths to the peaks. I am attaching a photo card, the blue lake behind my right hand, in the background of the tent, with the left hand - the path. Remember the direction of the trail - it is the same in any season.

A simple route to the blue lake: 2.5 - 3 hours in senior citizen mode and you are there. From the alpine camp on the left bank of the river. Actra, further along the not very pleasant-looking talus slope of Kyzyltash (it will always be on your right side) to the Ram's foreheads. Lamb foreheads are the most difficult part of the way, in my opinion, these are two large round rocks. Climbing right on them does not even come to a head; to the right of them we look at the sidelines and confidently go up. The couloir is a hollow formed as a result of a stream of water / snow. After overcoming the corridor there will be a rather gentle open part with a large stone, from which good photographs are obtained (in the presence of straight arms, of course).

After this part, the glacier and moraine, beyond which the lake will be clearly visible. You can walk along the glacier, no matter what I highly advise, it is not as welcoming as it seems. Therefore, it is better to slip a little on the moraine. Crossed the moraine? Here it is! (I shamelessly took the photo on Google, the summer trail is very clearly visible there).
And next - the recognizable yellow house of scientists involved in the study of glaciers! Glaciologists! This "hut" helps groups to survive the bad weather, which is commonplace in these parts.


On the right is clearly visible along the loose path. It leads to the Znachist Pass, from which the route opens to the Yubileinaya v. If you came and don’t die of fatigue, and the weather is clear, I would advise you to go to the pass, and from there to the top, the view is excellent! A few words - you go to the pass along the path, the photo shows that it goes around the lake on the right (by no means on the glacier!), Then goes to the left and to the pass. you need to choose the most stable surface and put your foot on the entire foot, and then only load. After we got to the pass, there will be a path to the right - the road to V. Yubileinaya. It has a very good view of the Kurai steppe and neighboring peaks. There is no snow at the very top and in winter, so you should not be afraid. The entire top is covered with flat sharp stones, it is better not to stumble. I will attach the May photo.

Green Hotel, Dome of the Three Lakes

Green Hotel is an intermediate point of routes, as is Blue Lake.
Probably, I mistakenly attribute this route to the routes for beginners, because there is still a glacier there. There is a glacier, there are glaciologists! And the house! The house is located above the green hotel to the right of the trail.
The path to the top of the Dome of the Three Lakes lies through the Green Hotel, in the summer there is good (they say). In our case, she looked like this on a successful day of climbing (first photo). And on the second, third photograph, the view of the Green Hotel from the first unsuccessful attempt to climb, because the weather was disgusting. Well and the fourth - again impudently taken another's hotel photo of the hotel in the summer.

We go from the camp, heading for small Aktru, look carefully to the left, as soon as we climbed the moraine, so there should be a lobby along the left wall, which you need to go into. It’s generally said that it’s better not to go on the sidelines without a detailed knowledge of the route, but in our department there was Grisha, who assured us that in the summer with his son they were self-propelled a couple of times without special knowledge! The movement is on a talus surface, you need to be careful about stones. As soon as we got up and saw the brackets in the rocks - the direction is correct! It is safer, of course, to go with insurance - to fasten your carabiner to metal cables. After the Via Ferrata is passed, there will be a site with a slight slope with large stones, and after that - another “windshield”, and immediately after it - the Green Hotel.
I can say that the most unpleasant part is a sharp climb, over a short distance a distance of almost km is sharply gained. You need to be very careful about your health in case of mountain sickness. Well, do not forget about the stones! Rockfalls are an unpleasant thing.
On approaching the summit, the Vodopadny glacier is quite safe, because there are no complex cracks in it. But it's still ice. Ice is slippery. If you go without equipment (there is no ice ax or cats) and there will be a fall on your stomach / back / side, then there will be an extremely unpleasant set of speed along the glacier with further rolling out onto sharp stones. I would not recommend going in unstable shoes.
The height of the peak of the Dome of the Three Lakes is 3,556 m. The view from there is good. Although ... This is the case when the peak may not be the ultimate goal, because on the way there it is also very picturesque and exciting!

Pass Teacher

A pass of category 1A of difficulty (this is a category of difficulty for passes or a tourist one, at alp. Routes the categories begin with 1B), the height is a little more than 3,000 m. The trail begins on it, sorry, with a toilet at the lower base. Pass from discharge: went to the store for bread, flew to another country, went to the toilet, went to see the steppe from the pass. The pass is simple, there is even a path without a category on it. On the route, it is better to immediately ask the inhabitants of the camp, they will show. The main thing to remember - if you are crawling on large slippery stones, then this is not your path!
This is probably the best option to watch from a height with minimal effort and energy on the Kurai steppe!

Goodies:

The next morning was the same as the previous one: food frozen on the table and dishes left, ice in the puddles, steam from the mouth. In general, frost and sun. Today, before all, I decided not to get up for photography, because I found a cool excuse for myself: both dawn and sunset in the gorge completely cover the mountains, and in the dark climb alone: \u200b\u200bI'm not mentally ready.

Otherwise, morning is like morning: breakfast, things to dry, fees. And on the "assault" of the pass "Teacher"

Why "Teacher": many different sections: stones, grass, loose, everything under highly  a good slope (+ -45, maybe even cooler), with constant interruptions of more or less even areas. Those. on the one hand, nothing really brutal: you go uphill and you go, but on the other hand: if you’ve only walked on asphalt / laminate all your life, you need to completely rethink the whole approach to how to use your feet. Just the very thing for the training of "pioneers"

So small dashes and wander

The trees are smaller. Good view of the entire valley (gorge), Karatash and small Aktru

and the other way to the exit to the steppe

Stones change grass

The people are quietly starting to warm up, undress

I wanted to find out if they understand what they are doing, but decided that it seems like adults. ... in vain ...

We need to carefully center up. It seems close)

My "Indian" has already completely let go after yesterday. But since the memories are still fresh, he decides not to stay too long so that they will not wait for us later. Therefore, while they are waiting for the rest, we leave "in isolation"

A little bit more

Yes, there are no streams on this route until the finish line, so forgetting the water (as we did) is highly discouraged. You can wash yourself from a small glacier, but its appearance is such that we do not risk drinking.

and today we have enough traction to climb first

delight and euphoria. * Thanks to those who missed)) And VIIIIID, just seeing)) Mountains, steppes, rivers, lakes. You will not squeeze into the monitor and do not pass

The entire site in the "pyramids". Why - I don’t know. Probably instead of the sandbox, or instead of "Vasya was here" ... Well, yes, it’s more pleasant for the eye

Has anyone else crawled here? I'll get it!

Well, I missed, well, okay. And generally not really wanted

The rest is smoothly pulled

colorful piece of rock

"... everyone builds, and I build ..."

"I won’t build anything, I’ll sunbathe"

I climb to the top point. 180 degrees panorama of the valley and a bunch of multi-colored "ants" from our group

Continuation of the panorama to the left. Behind the ridge, + to the white peak, we were on Goluboy yesterday.

and the whole company on the background of the Kurai valley

and against the background of the Dome (white top on the right), where we are going tomorrow

and almost a very general collage against him

well that's it, but now you can have a bit of ice cream) where does the ice cream come from? Snow + milk powder + condensed milk + candied fruit + marmalade. In general, just a resort program ol-inclusive))

  * Descent in the mountains is always a separate song. We went down without hurrying anywhere, and very much behind everyone. While descending, they heard the roar of a passing “commodity” from the Dome area. ...avalanche...
  When we went down, dinner was already ready, and it was already decided that tomorrow we would not go to the mountains. Output. mdya ... sorry Dome ...
  Masha breathed a sigh of relief. Well then, it means a day off.