Proper care of knitwear and knitwear. Jasmine-shaped gardenia: growing, home care Houseplant jasmine gardenia

gardenia jasmine(ardenia jasminoides) is one of the members of the Rubiaceae family. Flowers are very attractive to gardeners with their aroma and long flowering. Depending on the variety, it may bloom at different times of the year.

Jasmine gardenia got its name due to the approximate smell of a flower to jasmine.
China is considered the homeland, but the flower can be found in India, Taiwan, Japan. In cool climates, jasmine gardenia is grown in greenhouses and conservatories, and under appropriate conditions, adapts well at home. The bush is very demanding of itself and with a slight turn of the pot during ripening, it can throw off all the buds.

Description: Ornamental flowering shrub, in its natural environment, reaches a height of 2 m. It prefers shaded, but well-lit areas with an acidic soil composition and good drainage to remove moisture. Prefers heights from 200 to 500 m above sea level.

In room conditions, does not exceed 50-60 cm in height.

The leaves are smooth, plain green or dark green, shiny, lanceolate, pointed at the base, 8-10 cm long. The shoots are smooth.

Single flowers located in the axils of the leaves, but sometimes can be collected in inflorescences of 3-5 flowers, on the tops of young shoots.

It blooms in white or cream color, double flowers. Flowering often takes place from July to October, but it all depends on the variety and conditions of detention.

Over a long period, gardeners have cultivated many varieties, among which the most popular are:

• Chuck Hayes - up to 2 m high, with double cream flowers. Tolerates low temperatures well. Blooms throughout the summer.
• Beauty - flowering from summer to mid-autumn. It blooms with white large flowers, often used in horticulture.
• Amy - dark green leaves and double flowers 10-12 cm, give a sophisticated look. It can bloom 2 times a year, in winter and from mid-summer.
• Mystery - height 1.7 - 2 m, large dark green leaves. Flowers reach 14 cm, double. Flowering occurs twice a year.
• Belmont - A popular variety among gardeners due to its low temperature and disease resistance. Large ovoid leaves with flowers up to 10 cm and a very pleasant aroma.
• Radikans - a bush 0.6 - 1 m high and up to 1.5 m wide. The leaves are small, covered with shine. The flowers are double, 3-4 cm. Often used as a bonsai. Blooms from mid-summer to late autumn.
• Golden Magic - flowering has a different color and is very long.
• Variegata - Shrub of medium size, up to 1 m high, with variegated leaves and fragrant flowers 6 -8 cm. Well adapted for indoor conditions in a pot.

Gardenia jasmine - care and maintenance

Location and lighting: Prefers bright diffused light. At lunchtime, it is necessary to shade from direct sunlight, especially if the location is on the south side. Prefers southwest or southeast windows.

In winter, it needs additional lighting with fluorescent lamps, otherwise flowering will not begin.

In temperate latitudes, in summer, the flower is taken out into the open air in partial shade. Habitat in a warm, southern climate, needs spraying in the morning and evening, as well as shading. At the time of the appearance of the buds, the pot cannot be turned, it is also very sensitive to changes in lighting and can drop all the flowers. Outdoors, protected from rain and drafts.

Temperature: The optimum temperature during the hot period is 21-24°C. Starting in autumn, the figures are slowly reduced to 18-20°C. Often the temperature is reduced to 15-18°C, which compensates for the lack of light in winter and reduces flower depletion. Jasmine-shaped gardenia, can safely tolerate short-term drops to 10 ° C. High temperatures in winter, leads to bud drop, it is necessary to add artificial lighting.

Humidity: Prefers high or moderate humidity. Low humidity helps to reduce flowering, the flowers become dull and small. Humidity can be increased in several ways.

Spray morning and evening, covering the soil and protecting the buds as much as possible. During the flowering period, spraying is often stopped, moisture that has fallen on the petal provokes the appearance of dark spots on the surface. The water used is warm, a few degrees above the habitat.

You can put the pot on a tray with moistened pebbles or moss, but the pot should not touch the liquid.

Soil: For all varieties of gardenia, an acidic or slightly acidic soil is required.

You can buy ready-made mixtures for blooming decorative flowers (azaleas), or make your own. Composition: peat, sand, coniferous and sod land in equal quantities. The substrate must pass water and air well. Over time, acidity decreases. To maintain at the right level, watering is carried out with acidic water.

Watering: Water for irrigation is used warm, separated, or soft. From spring to early autumn, jasmine-shaped gardenia needs abundant watering. Carry out as the top layer dries.

From autumn to early spring, watering is significantly reduced, keeping the top layer semi-dry for 2-3 days, then only the next watering is carried out. Water only on top of the pot to achieve a uniform distribution of moisture, do not pour water into the pan. It is better to use settled or soft. It can be boiled, cooled and wait until the sediment settles on the bottom, then drain the top layer. Use water at room temperature, or a few degrees higher.

To maintain an acidic environment, add lemon juice (2-3 drops per 1 liter). Gardenia absorbs and assimilates nutrients from the soil only under the condition of an acidic environment. Excessive watering, or a dry earthen ball, is detrimental to the bush.

Transplantation: Young plants are transplanted every year in early spring.

Adults are transplanted every few years, as needed, when the roots have wrapped around the entire earthen ball.

Often the flower is not transplanted, but transshipped, with the addition of a fresh, nutritious acidic layer of soil. Sometimes it is enough to change only the top layer.

Pruning: Pruning is necessary as the bush grows, immediately after flowering. Cut off half of the shoot, it is also often used as a cutting for propagation.

Cut off both dried shoots and densely germinated.

In early spring, pinch the shoots, so the splendor of the bush is achieved.

Reproduction: Jasmine gardenia loses its profusion of flowering and charm over the years, but the plant can always be rejuvenated by cuttings. The shoot is cut after flowering during pruning, or in early spring before the buds begin to appear.

The cutting is first placed in a stimulant (a weak solution of potassium permanganate), then in a mixture of sand and peat in equal proportions. The cut shoot should not be shorter than 10-12 cm. The cutting can also take root in water.

The container is covered with a glass flask (jar) and ventilated regularly. At the same time, soil moisture is constantly maintained, watered abundantly and kept at a temperature of 24 degrees. In a month, roots should appear, to speed up the process, use the lower heating.

After the appearance of the root system, the stalk is transplanted into the ground. Composition: equal amounts of sand, peat, coniferous and sod land. Everything is thoroughly mixed. Previously, expanded clay drainage is laid on the bottom of the pot, in ¼ parts. The pot should have a hole in the bottom.

Top dressing: Feed the plant 2 times a month, starting in spring and ending in August. After transplantation, it is necessary to withstand a month of rest. Fertilizers are used purchased, with an acidic base. Also sprayed once a week with a weak mineral-based solution. The basis of top dressing is to maintain acidic soil. In winter, fertilize under the condition of yellowing of the leaves, magnesium sulfate, or iron in the form of a spray.

Pests: Gardenia jasmine, like other varieties, are affected by scale insects, aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites.

Difficulties in care and their solutions

There is no flowering. A common cause is high temperature, low humidity, or lack of light. Start regularly spraying the bush, also place the pot on a pallet with moistened pebbles, or expanded clay. If it is not possible to lower the temperature, extend the daylight hours by using fluorescent lamps.

Falling buds. There are a lot of reasons. The flower is extremely sensitive to sharp fluctuations in the external environment and violation of care standards.

Main reasons:

• insufficient lighting
• sudden changes in temperature or lighting
• drafts
• turning the pot around its axis, or changing place when buds appear (often found)
• excessive watering, or drying out of an earthy coma
• humidity 50% and below, subject to high air temperature

The flower is extremely sensitive at the moment of budding, be careful not to take any quick action to change the habitat or microclimate.

The leaves are starting to turn yellow. The watering regime is violated, or there is not enough top dressing.

• Often the cause is a slightly acidic substrate. Increase the acidity by adding 2-3 drops of lemon juice per 1 liter to the water for irrigation.
• One of the reasons: insufficient, or excessive watering. Follow the top layer of the earth, water only after the top layer has dried. Liquid must not remain in the pan.
• Pests infect plants. Use pest sprays, you can identify them in the section on pests of indoor plants.
• Sometimes the water itself (hard) will cause the leaves to turn yellow.

Spots on petals. During spraying (moisturizing), moisture got in, or jasmine-shaped gardenia is watered with too cold or hard water.

Gardenia jasmine (jasmine) is a very demanding plant and needs very good care. If you do not provide it with the proper conditions, it can quickly lose its decorative effect. Consider what a gardenia flower is and how to care for it at home.

Lighting.

The jasmine-shaped gardenia flower grows well in bright diffused light, while gardenia should be shaded from direct sunlight. In summer, the plant can be taken out to fresh air, but make sure that there is no draft. In winter, it is desirable to provide additional lighting with special lamps. During budding and flowering, the gardenia pot is not rearranged or rotated, because. this can cause the buds to drop.

Temperature.

Gardenia from spring to early autumn is kept at a temperature of 22-24 ° C. In autumn, the temperature is gradually lowered to 18 ° C, and in winter it can be reduced to 16 ° C (but not lower). This contributes to the active laying of flower buds by gardenia. Please note that the gardenia soil temperature should be the same as the air temperature, so the plant cannot be placed on a cold windowsill.

Gardenia (Gardenia)

Gardenia does not tolerate hypothermia of the root system.

Watering.

How often should you water your gardenia?
During the period of active growth, jasmine gardenia should be watered abundantly after 1.5 - 2 cm of the top layer of the substrate has dried. In autumn, watering is reduced to moderate, i.e. watered two to three days after 1.5 - 2 cm of the top layer of the substrate dries. In winter and during the period of laying buds (until the end of March), gardenia should be watered a little less often, avoiding overdrying and waterlogging of the soil. This will allow the gardenia to properly form buds.
Water for irrigation should be soft and warm. Read more about the right water for irrigation here.
In order to prevent the substrate from leaching, it is necessary to water the gardenia 2 times a month with a weak solution of citric acid (4-5 crystals of citric acid or a few drops of lemon juice per 1 liter of water) with ferrous sulfate - 0.5 grams per 1 liter of water. You can also use water infused with peat.

Air humidity.

Gardenia flower requires maintaining at home air humidity of 70 - 80%. Gardenia care in low humidity will be very problematic. You can increase the humidity of the air by spraying the plants, but during the period of budding and flowering, this method is not suitable, because when water gets on the buds and gardenia flowers, brown spots appear on them. During this period, it is better to use another way to humidify the air - put a gardenia pot on a wide pallet with wet expanded clay.

The soil.

Land for jasmine gardenia should be loose and nutritious, with an acidic reaction. The substrate for gardenia consists of equal parts of sod and coniferous soil, peat and sand (or perlite). You can use special soil for azaleas.

Top dressing.

Gardenia is fed from March to October, a young plant - 2 times a month, applying alternately organic and mineral fertilizers, an adult plant - 1 time per week with fertilizer for ornamental flowering plants without calcium. You can use peat-humic fertilizers.

Transfer.

Jasmine gardenia is transplanted in early spring or after flowering. A young plant is transplanted once a year, an adult - once every 2-3 years, earlier - only in case of emergency. In adult plants, a small part of the root system is cut off during transplantation to stimulate further growth of green mass. Plant care after transplantation consists in very careful watering, avoiding excessive waterlogging of the soil, but also preventing the earthen clod from drying out. Be sure to keep the humidity high. You can put the gardenia in a greenhouse for some time (1 - 2 weeks).

Pruning.

After flowering, pruning of jasmine-shaped gardenia is mandatory. How to prune a gardenia? Gardenia shoots are shortened with sharp disinfected scissors by half or 2/3 of the length. Weak shoots are cut off completely. During the period of active growth of gardenia, it is necessary to pinch (tweezer) the tops of its young shoots, because. this will encourage branching and flower bud formation.

Reproduction.

Gardenia flower at home usually propagated by cuttings. Read more about how to propagate gardenia here.

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How to transplant indoor gardenia

Many beginner flower growers are interested in the question of how to transplant gardenia correctly. After all, most often in the store it is sold by the bush. Then you have to plant the plants separately from each other so that they develop normally.

Gardenia must be transplanted after purchase, as it is sold by the bush.

Preparatory activities

So, the plant is bought. It is best to transplant in early spring. But if you need to do this earlier, then you should at least wait 2 weeks until the plant adapts to the new conditions at home. Immediately upon arrival home, it is advisable to arrange a warm shower for the gardenia, washing it with laundry soap, and then rinsing it with clean water.

Such a simple procedure will not leave a chance to multiply pathogenic microbes that could get on the plant or soil from the street during transportation. Now put the flower in a warm and bright place. Let him stay like this until the transplant.

Gardenia should be repotted in early spring.

Before you start transplanting, you need to water the plant well. It is very important that the soil in the pot is moist. Otherwise, the roots will be severely injured; after transplantation, the flower will often start to hurt. But the earth should not be poured, so that there is no dirt.

You also need to choose the right container. If the gardenia is small, then for the first time a plastic cup will do, and when the root system fills it completely, it will be possible to plant a flower in a permanent pot. Before planting, any container must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

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Tank and soil preparation

Now is the time to start preparing the substrate. It is best to purchase a special ready-made earthen mixture at a flower shop. But if this is not possible, it is allowed to use universal soil for indoor plants. In such a land, it is recommended to add in small quantities clean fine sand, cut into pieces of dry sphagnum moss and humus. Mix all this composition thoroughly, spraying with water from a spray bottle. So the soil for gardenia will become moderately moist, which is necessary for a successful planting.

Before transplanting, gardenia should be watered abundantly.

Gardenia requires good drainage. It is best to prepare expanded clay pebbles for this purpose, which must be steamed or held in boiling water in advance to kill pathogenic bacteria. The expanded clay layer should reach 2-2.5 cm.

It is recommended to pour a small amount of clean sand on top of the drainage, on top of which lay a thin layer of sphagnum moss or charcoal. And only then soil for gardenia is gradually poured into the container. After that, it is advisable to shed the entire soil with a very weak solution of manganese. All these activities will create optimal conditions for the development of gardenia. And in the future, the plant will get sick much less often or not at all, since most of the microbes in the earth will die.

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Plant preparation and transplanting

So, the soil for transplantation is ready.

Caring for Gardenia jasmine at home

It's time to proceed directly to the main process. To begin with, the gardenia must be removed along with the earthy clod from the transport pot. If there are several plants in the container, then this must be done very carefully so as not to damage them.

Often the roots are tangled with each other. And it is important not to cut off all the main roots when unraveling. If you can’t untangle anything at all, you can carefully separate the roots with a knife. After that, put each individual plant for an hour in water at room temperature. During this time, the earth will fall off, the roots can then be easily put in order.

Now you need to hold the plants in the growth stimulator. It is recommended to use Kornevin for this. It is necessary strictly according to the instructions to dissolve the active substance in water at room temperature, lower the roots of the plants there. The holding time is usually 2 hours. But it is better to follow the instructions on the package with the drug.

When the required time has passed, you can start planting plants in the soil. You need to take a gardenia and carefully place it in a pot of earth, leveling the roots. Gradually add soil, pressing it lightly around the gardenia stem. It is important to ensure that the entire stem of the plant does not enter the ground. Only 0.5-1 cm of the bottom of the stem should be in the substrate. Otherwise, the plant may die if the stem begins to rot.

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Post transplant care

As soon as all gardenias are planted in separate pots, they should immediately be watered with settled water at room temperature. You can also use leftover growth promoter solution. Immediately after transplantation, the leaves may wither, but you should not be afraid of this. This phenomenon is considered normal. Usually after a week, under favorable conditions, the plant returns to normal, the leaves come to life.

Gardenia transplants are stressful. And you need to ensure complete rest for a while and, if possible, minimize watering. It is recommended to do this only as needed, when the earthen clod dries out by 1.5 cm. And to more accurately determine the favorable time for watering, you should loosen the soil in the pot as often as possible.

For the first month, it is better to keep the plant under a plastic bag or a plastic cap if it is a very young seedling. At the same time, you should take care of the access of air. It is necessary to protect the gardenia from drafts and shade if direct sunlight hits. And the ambient air temperature does not need to be lowered below 18-19 ° C.

While the plant will adapt after transplantation, it is recommended to periodically spray it with soft, clean water from a spray bottle. This is especially true for young seedlings in a greenhouse. At the same time, watering can be omitted if the land is sufficiently irrigated from a spray bottle.

So, transplanting indoor gardenia is not difficult and even exciting.

And then, after a short period of time, it will begin to delight everyone with its beauty and health.

The most beautiful indoor plant is rooting gardenia, or jasmine-like, jasmine (in Latin Gardenia jasminoides). The fact that a beauty requires constant, very attentive care does not frighten enthusiastic flower growers: the efforts expended are rewarded with interest.

Forming a large shrub in nature or, during the flowering period, gardenias spread their magical aroma for many meters around. The flowers of the plant can surpass the most chic rose or peony.

A flower worthy of an emperor

The Song Dynasty, which existed about a thousand years ago, was the first to tell about the beautiful gardenias that adorned the chambers of the emperors of China themselves. Although gardenias showed their full potential, even then Chinese gardeners did not allow the bush to grow, but achieved the most luxurious flowering, so they became bonsai - a spectacular, miniature tree with a bizarre crown shape. Having appeared in Europe since the middle of the 18th century, gardenia was also limited in growth with the help of pruning and crown formation.

Deciding to decorate your life with an amazing, rather capricious flower, take care to study the rules of care.

Special indoor varieties are now available that require minimal pruning, but still remain quite complex, demanding to care for.

How to care for gardenia at home

Lighting

The optimal location will be the southern and western windows. In summer, in the very heat, the plant is moved away from the window, making the rays diffuse, in winter, on the contrary, they are brought closer so that there is enough light. It is important not to allow the sultry scorching sun to enter, so as not to cause burns or leaf fall.

Temperature and humidity

The life cycle of a plant in natural conditions dictates its own rules in maintaining the air temperature by season. In summer, temperatures up to 21–24 ° C during the day are allowed, at night up to 15–18 ° C. In winter, it can drop to 16 °C, the minimum allowable air cooling is 10 °C.

• It is difficult to maintain coolness in summer, but with the advent of air conditioners, the task has become easier.
• If you ventilate the room by opening the window, remove the flower away from cold air currents. Getting into a draft is fraught with the fall of flower buds and flowers, as well as only formed flower buds. A similar effect is possible with a lack of moisture, dry air with a low oxygen content.
• It is advisable to spray the plant regularly on the leaves from a fine spray gun.
• The beauty loves moist air, help the plant: put the pot on a pallet with moistened pebbles or expanded clay. Make sure the water doesn't touch the bottom of the pot.
• In addition to regular spraying on the leaves, the procedure for wiping the leaves with a damp cloth is useful. Removing dust, you contribute to the complete absorption of oxygen from the air, the full processes of air exchange and photosynthesis in the leaves.

The flower will have a healthy appearance, rich color and will never get sick with careful attention. A warm shower has a beneficial effect on the condition of the plant, but the soil in the pot should be covered with a bag so as not to overmoisten it.

How to water

For use settled water at room temperature. It's great if the water is filtered or melted, rain.

• In spring and summer, keep the soil moist, avoiding the accumulation of moisture in the pot pan. Proper watering helps to maintain the strength of the plant at the stage of preparation for flowering and directly during it.
• In winter, flower growth slows down, the need for moisture decreases - reduce watering. Remember: when the soil is waterlogged, you risk losing the flower due to root rot, which can spread to the entire plant.

Gardenia likes acidified soil, so you need to add citric acid to the water for irrigation: a couple of grams per 1 liter of warm, settled water, which helps to absorb nutrients from the soil. Alternate watering with plain water and acidified water about three times a fourth.

top dressing

• gardenia twice a month with complex fertilizers for azaleas or ornamental flowering plants, following the manufacturer's recommendations.
• The flower responds well to foliar fertilizing with iron-containing preparations and magnesium sulfate, which can be done weekly. Such procedures can not be stopped even in winter, especially if you notice a lightening of the leaves (chlorosis).

When does gardenia bloom?

The plant blooms from July to October, releasing new flowers every week. To maintain decorativeness and stimulate flowering, wilted buds are recommended to be cut.

Gardenia after purchase

• If you bought a gardenia in bloom, do not rush to transplant it immediately: after transplanting, the buds are likely to crumble.
• You can enjoy the beautiful view of the plant and, after three to four weeks, transfer the plant to a new pot with more suitable soil.

A feature of the soil in which the sold plants grow can be called a one-time use: the nutrients are quickly absorbed, usually they are enough to keep the plant in a flowering state throughout the current season.

Such soil contains a lot of peat, is very loose, and poorly retains moisture. Plus the pot becomes very small in speed. Gardenia after purchase is best transplanted into a spacious pot with nutrient soil for gardenias or azaleas, arranging a drainage layer of small pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom.

The plant is watered and allowed to stand, then carefully rolled over, trying not to disturb the roots. Such a procedure will be painless, even if the gardenia blooms. But it is best to transplant in the spring, before flowering. A month and a half after transplantation, feeding is resumed.

What to do with gardenia after purchase, look at the video:

Soil for transplanting

They take soil for gardenia, azaleas, rhododendrons, or any ready-made soil mixture with an acidic reaction. Check with the flower shop which soil they offer you: a neutral or alkaline environment will not work for the plant.

gardenia transplant

The flower grows over time, completely filling the place in the pot with roots. Roots breaking out will be a sign of the need to urgently transplant the plant. If this is not done, the plant will stop developing, stop blooming, or even begin to hurt and lose its decorative effect.

• Prepare a wider and deeper pot, put small pebbles on the bottom as a drainage layer.
• Sprinkle a layer of earth for azaleas on top.
• Carefully remove the pot from the azalea roots, pressing lightly and twisting it to better separate it from the soil inside.
• Set the gardenia upright in a new pot, sprinkle the remaining soil on the sides.
• You can remove a couple of centimeters of old earth from above to replace it with fresh soil. Do this very carefully, trying not to injure the roots.
• After transplanting, the gardenia is watered, excess water is drained from the pan.

If the gardenia was stressed before transplanting, a gentle one will be needed: cut off the existing unblown buds and flowers so that the plant takes root more easily. After transplanting, protect the flower from direct sunlight and drafts. After a week or two, the root system will recover from the damage received and the plant will be accepted.

How to transplant gardenia, another video will tell:

Pinching and pruning gardenia

• gardenia begins from the second year of life.
• To do this, cut off the tops of the shoots above the third pair of leaves with scissors in order to increase the branching and splendor of the crown.
• Pruning is necessary when removing dry, ugly twigs and when forming the correct shape of the crown.
• Thickening branches that grow unevenly are cut off, too long are shortened.
• Also cut off faded flowers and dried buds.

Gardenia tolerates pruning well, quickly expelling new shoots instead of old ones.

How to form a gardenia bush, look at the video:

It is important not to be afraid to prune in a timely manner so that the bush develops evenly and remains well-groomed. The compact form of the bush is maintained by constant pinching of the tops of the left shoots and pruning of the branches at least once a year.

gardenia bonsai

• The plant can be shaped in style.
• To do this, form the central shoot, constantly pinching all the tops and cutting out excess branches.
• The trunk of the plant will become thicker every year, and the branches are rejuvenated by cardinal pruning.
• It is important to prune before the end of autumn so that the flower buds have time to form. Then gardenia will delight every year with incomparable flowering on a mini bonsai tree.

Propagation of gardenia by cuttings

Cut branches can be rooted. There should be several leaves on the handle. Place the cuttings for a day in water with a dissolved root formation stimulator (kornevin, heteroauxin).

Next, you can root the cuttings in water or plant them in moist nutrient soil. The second method is preferable, since the roots form faster and more intensively. The leaves are cut by a third to reduce the evaporation of moisture.

If rooted in water, when roots appear, transplant the young plant into a pot with a light nutrient substrate. Further watering will need regular, but no frills. The soil should remain moist without stagnant water. Lighting must be diffused, choose western or eastern windows. Seedlings obtained from cuttings will bloom next year.

How to propagate gardenia by cuttings, the video will clearly tell:

The South Asian beauty gardenia naturally loves warm, acidic, breathable soil and mild sun - creating similar conditions for the gardenia darling, you will achieve magnificent flowering and a healthy appearance of the flower all year round.

Growing gardenia from seed

Large gardenia seeds can be planted one at a time in separate cups without any problems, so as not to engage in picking later. But many flower growers prefer to sow in a common container in order to take up less space in the first month of cultivation. Everyone chooses what is more convenient for him.

• Planting depth -1 cm, distance between seedlings - 2-3 cm.
• The sown seeds are sprayed with a spray gun and covered with a film.
• In such a mini greenhouse, plants will sprout within three weeks.
• Care consists in maintaining a constant soil moisture (there must be drainage to prevent stagnant water) and regular ventilation of the greenhouse.

Gardenia seedlings photo seedlings

• If sowing was carried out in a common container, at the stage of 3-4 true leaves, the plants dive into separate containers, pinching the central root, still covered with bags or transparent jars.
• After 7-10 days after transplantation, top dressing is carried out with a complex preparation for azaleas.

When the seedlings grow up, they are gradually accustomed to open space, removing shelter.

Gardenia care mistakes and common problems

Why gardenia does not bloom

The flower is quite demanding on the conditions of detention. In order for the beautiful gardenia to bloom, you need to maintain a maintenance regime for the seasons. A dormant period is required in cold weather with a decrease in air temperature to 16-18 ° C and moderate watering. In spring, the air temperature is slowly increased and maintained moderate, not more than 24°C.

Gardenia may not bloom due to the wrong composition of the soil, or rather its acid-base reaction. A soil with a slightly acidic reaction is needed. Remember: from frequent watering, the earth alkalizes. The appearance of excess salt can be judged by the presence of white deposits on the lumps of earth and the sides of the pot. The solution to the problem is an urgent transplant of a flower into the ground for gardenias or azaleas and alternating waterings with acidified water and simple.

Good lighting is also important, without which the plant will not release flower buds.

Gardenia will not bloom if cardinal pruning is carried out in winter or spring and flower buds are cut. Prune the bush immediately after flowering has ended so that the plant has time to lay flower buds for the next season.

Gardenia leaves are falling

The problem arises under two circumstances: insufficient watering and getting into a draft. In both cases, the plant experiences stress, which results in a defensive reaction - dropping leaves.

Keep your gardenia cool by keeping the plant out of cold air from a window or open door.

Gardenia leaves turn yellow and black, and then fall off

Gardenia leaves begin to turn yellow and blacken massively as a result of constant overflow: the plant becomes ill with root rot, unable to cope with the attacking putrefactive bacteria.

• To help the beauty, you will need to replace the soil and disinfect the pot.
• Be sure to cut off diseased branches, carefully inspect the roots and remove damaged areas.
• After transplanting, treat the plant with phytosporin biofungicide as directed or with chemical fungicides (Recommended fungicides include myclobutanil, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, propiconazole, triforin).
• Keep the soil moist by watering regularly in small amounts.
• Do not allow waterlogging of the soil and stagnation of water in the pan!

Gardenia leaves turn black but do not fall

Why gardenia leaves turn black photo Sooty fungus

Another reason for the blackening of the leaves is the spread of soot fungus on the leaf surface. Here the problem arises due to the defeat of the plant by sucking pests. Help - treatment with insecticides 4-5 times with an interval of 5 days, wiping the leaves with soapy water to wash off the soot.

Gardenia leaves turn yellow

Paleness and unhealthy yellowness of the leaves indicate the appearance of chlorosis. This is a physical disease that speaks of a lack of iron. Alkalinization of the soil contributes to poor absorption of the element (this has already been discussed, we use soil for azalea or gardenia and pour it with acidified water).

• To prevent gardenia from turning yellow, regular fertilizing with iron-containing preparations (Micro-Fe or Ferovit) is carried out.
• Experienced flower growers advise immediately after planting to “drive” several nails into the ground, which, when rusting, will replenish the lack of iron in the soil.
• The second essential element of gardenia is magnesium. Without it, gardenia leaves also turn yellow. Magnesium sulfate will help compensate for the lack of a microelement. Foliar top dressing is carried out with a solution at a concentration of 2 g. per liter of water every 1-2 weeks

Dropping buds and flower buds

Gardenias drop flowers and buds as a result of stress. This can be pest infestation (aphids, scale insects, nematodes, thrips), overly concentrated top dressings, overwatering, poor soil drainage, insufficient lighting, extreme temperature fluctuations or too high / low temperatures (strong cold or hot dry weather).

We continue the conversation about the features of knitted yarn.

So, how to care for and store knitted yarn products?

1. 💦 Wash such products in cold water up to 30 degrees with a mild detergent dissolved in it, preferably by hand. Pre-soaking products from t-yarn is not required! However, they should not be strongly rubbed with hands or a brush. At a higher washing temperature and using aggressive detergents, the color of the product may change. The remaining water must be removed as follows: put the product between terry towels, roll it up and wring it out.

2. 💨 To properly dry a knitted yarn product, it must be straightened on a horizontal surface, giving it the correct shape. Dry in a well-ventilated area, but not on heaters or in direct sunlight. Most jerseys cannot stand various types of dryers and tumble dryers.3. 📦 There is a golden rule: any knitwear should be stored in a horizontal position. Knitted handbags and clutches are also no exception. It is absolutely unacceptable to store the product in a suspended state - on a coat hanger, on a hook, on a door handle. Under heavy weight, the handle of the handbag can stretch for tens of centimeters, and the edges of the bag can bend inward and take an ugly shape.

That's all! By following all these simple rules, you can significantly extend the life of your favorite things made from fashionable knitted yarn.

How to wash acrylic by hand

Hand washing of acrylic items is recommended in cases where the clothes have all kinds of decorations that cannot be removed for a while (beads, brooches, rhinestones, etc.). At the same time, it is recommended to use ordinary laundry soap to remove contaminants, and not expensive specialized powder. You might be interested in learning how to take care of fleece fabric.

You can wash this synthetic fabric by hand at a water temperature of 30-35 degrees (better lower than higher). This is due to the fact that when heated, the artificial material begins to quickly lose its softness and loses its original shape, which it will never return to. Therefore, speaking about whether acrylic shrinks after washing, it can be noted that this happens in cases where the fabric is washed at a high temperature.

The full list of synthetic fabrics is here.

To prevent the formation of pilling on clothes (especially often they appear on acrylic sweaters), it is recommended to wash with the use of a softener, as well as an antistatic agent, which will not allow clothes to stick to the body.

At the end, you need to wrap the washed clothes in a towel and gently wring out without twisting the material.

How to wash acrylic in the washing machine

Many housewives do not know in what mode and at what temperature to wash acrylic, so they simply choose a delicate program. This is the right decision, because washing this synthetic fabric in a washing machine is only allowed at a temperature of no more than 30 degrees. In addition, it is strongly recommended to set the minimum possible spin speed - 300-500 (if possible).

See also: How to wash organza

If possible, then it is necessary to wash acrylic things in a special bag, which are widely represented in stores today. You can choose a regular washing powder, since it makes no sense to wash knitted things made of acrylic with expensive specialized detergents. If you can set the “Wool” mode on the washing machine, then in the case of acrylic things, this will be the best option.

Many housewives do not know how to clean acrylic, so they use standard bleaches. This is the wrong approach, because if washed with bleach, this can adversely affect the quality of the material and lead to problems in its further operation.

Also, do not wash with the drying and ironing programs that are provided in modern washing machines. Their use is also capable of damaging this synthetic material. At the end of the wash, the acrylic item should be wet or damp, not dry. Following simple rules on how to wash acrylic in a typewriter will extend the life of your clothes several times over.

See also: How to wash and iron cashmere

Features of fleece care

Tip: with frequent wear and processing of synthetic products, pellets may appear on the surface of the material over time. To remove them, use a razor. When cleaning, be careful not to damage the fabric and cut yourself. Drive the loom only on a well-flattened surface of the material, preferably in one direction, along the knitting of the knitwear, i.e. top down.

Washing in the washing machine

• Before washing things, see if there are any stains. Any household stains can be easily cleaned by soaking the fleece in a slightly warm soapy solution before the main wash. As a rule, after soaking, any dirt easily leaves this synthetic material.
• If you wash a blanket or blanket, before putting the product in the washing machine, shake it out of dust and other small debris.
• Pockets on clothing should be checked and turned inside out, remove debris and dirt from them.
• Things are turned inside out and all available zippers, locks and buttons are fastened to the end.
• Pour the conditioner into the compartment of the washing machine. From detergents, we choose liquid gentle ones that do not contain bleach and chlorine. For colored products, we choose a tool that preserves color, that is, marked - "Color".
• We set the delicate washing mode or the "Synthetics" mode. We set the temperature to 30 - 40 ° C no higher.
• Disable "Spin" and "Dry" modes.
• We take out a clean thing from the machine, gently and gently wring out the water with our hands. If these are clothes, hang them on hangers over the bathtub, let the water drain on its own, hang rugs and blankets on a rope.

IMPORTANT! Fleece products should be dried only under natural conditions. It is strictly forbidden to dry on batteries, near heat sources, in the open rays of the sun, with an iron, and even more so, over a stove, as this material is highly flammable.

• Fleece items cannot be ironed. With proper drying, this material dries fairly quickly and does not deform, so you do not need an iron.

We wash by hand

Washing by hand is no different from washing in a machine - automatic. We choose a suitable, preferably liquid detergent, if there are none, then the fleece can be washed with ordinary laundry soap. As a rule, this material is easily washed off and there is no need to rub and wrinkle it strongly. After washing, rinse things in cool water with the addition of conditioner.

Do not twist a clean thing, wring it out slightly. You can wrap it in a terry towel, and then hang it up so that the water glass itself.

Dry according to all the rules that were described above. Since not proper drying will ruin your things.

As you can see, fleece is pretty easy to care for. By following the basic rules, which mainly consist in the required temperature regime, you will keep your things in good condition for a long time.

Read also

How to get rid of pimples on outerwear

With such a problem, how to clean a drape coat from pellets, many are faced. It is worth noting that things made of wool often suffer from a similar problem, this applies to scarves, hats, etc. A frequent question is how to remove pellets from a coat, jacket, hat, bring the jacket back to normal. To solve this problem, there are several effective ways to clean clothes from pellets using improvised means. At the same time, in order to effectively apply any method, you will need patience and skill, sleight of hand.

Ways to clean different types of fabrics without a machine

Before removing pellets from clothes at home, you need to consider that some methods are quite dangerous and can completely ruin the fabric, so you should not take risks with expensive clothes:

1. The leading position in the rating of danger is occupied by a razor. Using a life hack with this item, you can quickly and effectively remove unpleasant lumps, but one wrong move can leave a hole in the fabric. The razor is used quite often. It is available in almost every home, and it removes the pellets well. It is especially convenient to work with this tool on knitwear and other materials where numerous, but small lumps are formed.
2. Safer, but less effective, is the use of tape. In order for the adhesive base to eliminate unpleasant defects on clothes, you need to choose the most powerful adhesive tape. Most often, a medical adhesive plaster is chosen for these purposes. The use of an adhesive base, including a cleaning roller, will only be justified if the pellets have recently appeared.
3. Large lumps can be removed with scissors. But you need to work as carefully as possible. It is better to take manicure scissors with thin and sharp ends. It is easier to work with them, and it is more difficult to spoil the material.
4. It is recommended to use scissors only if there are large elements, which are not too many on the clothes. If the removal of the pellets is planned on woolen fabric, and especially on mohair, then you should first comb the pile with a fine-toothed comb. It is worth noting that some of the lumps will leave after the preparatory procedure.
5. If the fabric requires a delicate attitude, then the pellets can be removed with an electric razor, scissors or adhesive tape cannot be used, as the material may stretch. Here you should use a brush. You can take a toothbrush, but of medium hardness. Before starting work, moisten the problem area with vinegar, and then rinse and dry the product.
6. Among the time-tested ways to remove pellets on clothes, it is worth highlighting the use of crackers. This method has been used hundreds of years ago. The cracker should be porous and hard so that pieces do not break off from it during use. The method works well, but is only suitable for coarse or dense fabrics. An alternative to this solution would be to use a hard-side kitchen sponge or sandpaper.

For those who prefer today's methods, dry cleaning is recommended. Here, the clothes will be quickly put in order by professionals. If the thing is expensive, you should use this method. The only exceptions are those products that are not recommended for dry cleaning. In any case, they will have to be processed manually.

Knitwear

Let's figure out how to clean knitwear. You need to work with knitted knitwear carefully. The material can stretch quickly if handled incorrectly. You can clean knitwear (sweatshirts, dresses, socks, jumpers, nylon tights) with a razor. Given that lumps are small on this type of fabric, the blade cleans them well. But keep in mind that thin fabrics can quickly become full of holes after such processing. Therefore, it is better to use a special machine or such economical methods as a toothbrush and dishwashing sponge.

Woolen things

With woolen things, removing the pellets is the most problematic. Here their appearance even with the correct processing of the material is an expected phenomenon. Lumps, for example, on a sweater, can be of different sizes depending on the type of pile.

If the pellets are large and not numerous, it is most convenient to use scissors for cleaning, small balls should be dealt with with a machine.

Experts believe that a toothbrush can be used to remove pellets from wool. The main thing is to apply it correctly. Moving the brush against the nap will cause the fabric to stretch, which will deform the clothes. For more clarity, you can watch the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgEEegRqFhcVideo can’t be loaded: How to remove pellets from clothes (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgEEegRqFhc)

thick fabric

As for how to remove pellets from clothes made of dense fabric, for example, jeans, trousers, trousers, everything is somewhat simpler here. With such materials, you can not be afraid that they will stretch and become unusable. Depending on the size and number of pellets, one method or another may be used. If we talk about how to quickly remove large pellets, then you can use scissors, and small formations are easily removed with tape, a razor or a brush. A universal method that is suitable for any occasion is the use of a special machine.

special machine

The most effective way to combat spools is to use a special machine. Often such devices are not only convenient, but also safe. Therefore, the owner of expensive outerwear need not worry that the product will become unusable after such processing.

The cost of the machine against the spools is within 300 rubles. Such devices are best used when cleaning expensive items. Today, there is no better option than this special pellet device.

When buying a machine, you should pay attention to the cleaning head: the larger it is, the faster the work will be done. Shape and weight play a significant role: heavy and bulky machines will be inconvenient to use, especially when working with large products.

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Growth area - the Far East, India, China. Indoor gardenia grows up to 50 cm in height.

The leaves are dark green, rich in color, with a smooth surface and a glossy sheen. Leaves up to 10cm long. The appearance of a gardenia flower resembles a rose. Color - white, in some varieties there are terry texture of the petals. The size of inflorescences in diameter is 7-10 cm.

A distinctive feature is the delicate, jasmine aroma that the indoor flower emits during flowering.

The Importance of Proper Land

As for the land, gardenia is picky in this matter. Even, it will not be able to compensate for the unsuitable composition of the soil. A well-developed root system is the key to the full development of the ground part of the plant.

Gardenia prefers acidic soil, and does not tolerate lime at all.. The optimal composition of the soil mixture should be as close as possible to the natural habitat.

It is important to know that gardenia can react sharply if the soil does not suit it. Indoor exotic will grow poorly, the flowering period will be postponed indefinitely, and if it blooms, the inflorescences will be small and inconspicuous. It will also quickly drop flower stalks,. Why gardenia does not bloom and how to solve this problem you will learn, but we wrote about the diseases and pests of this beauty.

Suitable soil

As already mentioned, the plant loves acidic soil, pH 4.5-5.5. The earth should be light, loose and fertile. The flower grows well in moist soil, so an important characteristic is the ability of the soil to retain water. Even if initially, the mixture was purchased correctly, then over time, water washes away acidic substances and the earth should be acidified. What will become the regular responsibility of the owner.

Specialty stores offer a long list of soils suitable for planting gardenias. Soils are the best option:

• for azalea;
• rhododendrons;
• universal soil mixture for flowering plants.

However, any finished substrate can be brought to the desired condition, friability and moisture capacity. It is also important to know which components of the soil mixture will be preferable for gardenia. For self-preparation of the substrate, the following components will be required:

1. leafy land;
2. soddy soil;
3. coniferous land;
4. peat;
5. coarse sand;
6. sphagnum moss;
7. natural leavening agents.

The total component of additives should be no more than 1/3 of the total earth mixture. As baking powder, it is best to use perlite or vermiculite, they can also replace sand if the latter is not available.

What pots are suitable?

As for the flower container:

1. It is better to choose a pot of small diameter.
2. It is recommended to take a new pot 2-3 cm larger than the previous one.
3. The material is preferably ceramic or plastic.
4. Be sure to have drainage holes.
5. Also, the pot should not be too deep to prevent liquid stagnation.

For the first time after purchase, the plant should be transplanted after three weeks. This time is necessary for the full adaptation of the flower. It is better to use the transshipment method during the transplantation process, which will be less painful for gardenia.

Careful preparation for transplantation

Gardenia, like most plants, does not tolerate transplantation well. This process should be performed 1 time in 2-3 years, as the root system grows. Juveniles should be repotted annually. The process of soil renewal is usually performed in early spring, always after flowering.

1. The roots are quite fragile and thin, so be careful when removing from the container.
2. Then carefully cut off dry, yellow root shoots with a sharp tool, as a result, new ones will grow in their place.
3. After that, a drainage layer of about 4-5 cm is laid on the bottom of the selected flowerpot, which is essential for water flow.
4. We fill the container with prepared soil, at room temperature.
5. We place the plant in the center of the pot, and sprinkle the roots on top with a layer of earth.
6. At the end of the process, it is important to water the plant moderately.

Plant transplant video:

How to water?

Jasmine Gardenia is known for its wayward nature when it comes to watering.

The water balance changes depending on the time of year and the life cycle of the plant. Compliance with this condition makes indoor exotic a capricious and demanding flower.

Soil fertilizer

You need to feed indoor gardenia continuously from March to the end of August.. At the beginning of spring, active growth begins, the flower needs additional nutrition, and fertilizers can not be used in the autumn-winter period.

1. Fertilize the flower should be 2 times a month.
2. Make the concentration 2 times weaker than indicated in the instructions, in order not to overfeed the plant.
3. Mineral fertilizers should be applied on pre-moistened soil.
4. Liquid complex fertilizers for flowering are used as nutrients.
5. It is important that this composition does not include the mineral - calcium. Indoor beauty reacts rather sharply to the presence of this substance, slows down growth, does not bloom.
6. If during flowering, the foliage begins to turn pale, the bright green color is lost, yellow leaves appear - this is a clear sign of iron deficiency (you will learn about gardenia leaf problems in). In this case, foliar top dressing should be carried out with ferrous sulfate.
7. A recently purchased flower is not fed for the first 2 months.
8. After transplantation, you can not fertilize the soil, you can restore nutrition after 1-2 months.

So, knowing what soil gardenia prefers, you can not make a mistake. Buy exclusively acidic soil or cook it yourself, after disinfecting all the components. Follow all of the above recommendations regarding transplanting, choosing a pot, watering and top dressing. And he will thank you for the unusually beautiful flowering and healthy appearance.

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Among indoor plants, which are able to decorate the home environment in a special way, gardenia occupies an honorable place. This is a juicy green bush with delicate flowers. The jasmine variety of the plant is the most undemanding in its family for care and maintenance. Flower growers give recommendations with photo and video instructions on how to grow gardenia.

Description and features of jasmine gardenia

Wild gardenias are native to East and Southeast Asia. From the climatic features of these regions, one can draw conclusions about the customs and preferences of the flower, even while living in an apartment. Jasmine gardenia, in fact, is the only species of about 250 domesticated and tested in domestic conditions. The plant easily becomes an element of most interiors, captivating with its tenderness and sophistication. Characteristics:

• grows a low bush up to 45-50 cm;
• leaves - long, shiny, rich green;
• flowering - plentiful, from mid-summer to mid-autumn;
• flowers - white, double, with an unusual and pleasant aroma, outwardly resemble roses.

Attention! If you were given a pleasant surprise and unexpectedly presented this flower, immediately and actively begin caring for it. Due to the change in the atmosphere, the average daily temperature and humidity, the irrigation regime, the plant may simply die.

Popular varieties of jasmine gardenia and the basics of caring for them

The jasmine variety of gardenia combines several varieties. For example, Flore Pleno produces particularly beautiful double double flowers. Variegata is unusual in the color of its leaves: they are covered with variegated tints from bright green to cream. Radicans Variegata is its dwarf counterpart, with a more distinct pattern on the foliage. Variety First Love blooms in spring before other gardenias.

In growing this flower, it is important to adhere to two key aspects:

1. The plant loves an abundance of moisture, heat and light.
2. Gardenia does not accept permutations. It is categorically impossible to move a flower from place to place, to alternate abundant watering with dry periods. Also prevent sudden temperature changes that may occur in cold weather due to opening a window, etc.

What conditions do jasmine gardenia need

Good lighting for a gardenia is plenty of light throughout the day. However, keep the plant away from direct midday sun in the summer. It is better to place the flower on the western or eastern window sills, where it will not get burned in the middle of the day. Shading by trees or buildings is also undesirable. Once a season, before winter, jasmine gardenia can be rearranged to the south side. In the spring, return the plant to its original place.

Attention! When moving, rearranging, or even turning a gardenia pot, it is the change in lighting mode that becomes a disaster for her. In no case should this be done during the formation and growth of buds. A stressful situation will provoke the dropping of unopened flowers.

Gardenia does not like a dry atmosphere - the plant slows down or stops development. If the humidity decreases during the formation of buds, then the gardenia will lose some of them and risk not blooming at all. To avoid sudden fluctuations in humidity, flower growers recommend placing a pot with a plant in a tray with moistened moss or expanded clay. The bottom of the flower container must not come into contact with water. Also, humidity can be increased by spraying the bush. Just do not get drops on the buds or opening flowers.

The optimal temperature regime for jasmine gardenia:

• during active growth, in spring and summer - within + 22 ... 24 ° С;
• in winter during the dormant period - about + 18 ... 20 ° С;
• during the ripening of the buds, the mode of + 18 ° С in the air, + 20 ... 22 ° С in the soil has a beneficial effect.

Attention! The thermal minimum of the plant is +16°C. Temperature fluctuations during the formation of flowers will also provoke their loss.

How to properly organize watering, fertilizing and pruning jasmine gardenia

The basic rule for watering a flower is that the earth in a pot should not dry out. However, pouring gardenia until water stagnates in the roots is also harmful:

1. During the period of activity of the flower, water it abundantly. The water should be soft and slightly warm. Irrigation with boiled or filtered water works well.
2. In winter, the recommendations for watering are the same, except for the intensity - less water is needed, but the soil should still retain moisture.

From the beginning of spring to August, gardenias need liquid top dressing. Apply a special fertilizer for flowering indoor crops once every 2 weeks. Florists advise cutting the dose recommended by the instructions by half. After flowering is completed, the plant must be pruned:

1. Shorten the shoots by half or 2/3.
2. Pinch the tips of the new shoots to encourage the emergence of side shoots. This will give more flowers in the new season. The procedure is usually carried out at the end of winter.

Cut cuttings are suitable for propagation. Root them in moist and warm soil. To help shoots, use stimulant drugs. After that, cover the plant with foil. The rooting process is quite long. When the stalk grows and reaches 15 cm, its top also needs to be pinched.

Gardenia care at home is not easy. The reward for your work will be a lush bush strewn with beautiful flowers on the windowsill.

Jasmine gardenia: video